At first sight, Gyeongju seems so vast as to require a guided tour. Yet the many sights in this historic, gracious city are remarkably easy to navigate on your own.
A visitor-friendly bus provides a ready-made hop-on, hop-off itinerary. And most attractions are clustered together, allowing you to stroll, cycle and meander around traffic-free zones in this “museum without walls.” Here are our tips for how to get around Gyeongju.
Both buses 10 (the clockwise loop) and 11 (counterclockwise) run from Gyeongju’s adjacent bus terminals (Gyeongju Express Bus Terminal and Gyeongju Intercity Bus Terminal) and Gyeongju train station to the lofty stone temple Bulguk-sa. Rides cost ₩1650 ($1.38) regardless of distance; sadly, there are no transfer discounts for the same route. Each stop (with its adjacent sights) is announced in Korean and English, although the route map on board is only in Korean. Buses run every 20 minutes from 6am to 9:40pm.
Bus 10 provides the most direct route to the astronomical observatory Cheomseongdae and Lake Bomun Resort. Bus 11 is the faster choice for getting to Donggung and Wolji Pond (also known as Anapji Pond), Gyeongju National Museum and northeastern Namsan. From Bulguk-sa, the fastest bus to the sights will be vice versa, so bus 11 will pass through Lake Bolmun Resort, and so on.
From Bulguk-sa bus 12 takes you up to Seokguram. If you want to see it all, plan the timing of your itinerary based on the route taken by bus 10 or 11. Keep in mind that routes 10 and 11 can be standing-room-only on busy weekends, so it might be useful to seek alternate local bus routes if this is your preferred mode of transit.
In South Korea, Naver and Kakao Maps are the best for digital-routing options. Kakao shows the best bus to catch and can be navigated using English names; familiar icons make route options legible to non-Korean speakers. Internet access is required.
While the cards only offer slight discounts on travel for most visitors (paper tickets cost ₩50 on top of the prices listed here), they make travel more convenient by avoiding the hassle of having to buy paper tickets. The cards are also useful for buying food and drinks from the same convenience stores that offer preloaded credit.
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The 5-minute ride between Gyeongju Station and Gyeongju National Museum will cost about ₩3500 ($2.93, only a little more than two tickets on bus 11). A one-way ride between Lake Bomun Resort and the city center runs about ₩10,000 ($8.38). You will see taxis outside train and bus stations touting their services for half a day – you can consider this a private tour, though one without a guide. You can haggle with a smile, but still expect to pay about ₩150,000/200,000 ($125.71/$167.61) for 5/7 hours.
It should be no surprise that strolling in the open air is one of the best things to do in a “museum without walls.” Indeed, the Tumuli Gongwon historic area that covers 23 burial mounds, former royal gardens and an ancient astronomical observatory is simply a joy to discover on foot. High-rises are banned here, so if you are coming from a city, you’ll find it refreshing to be able to gaze into the distance. If you stay in the center of town, you can really burn some calories by walking to this nearby area, and then to the hip cafes of Hwangridan-gil afterward, without having to set foot in a vehicle.
Since the Lake Bomun Resort is geared towards domestic visitors, and since Koreans like to walk, you’ll find plenty of fellow strollers around the lake, in the theme park and shopping areas, and under the cherry blossoms.
A network of trails trace the mountainsides of Namsan and the pagodas, Buddha statues and more make this walk a delightful scavenger hunt set in nature.
The incline between Bulguk-sa and the Buddha at Seokguram takes only 20 minutes on a (frequently late) bus – but it’s an invigorating 1.5-hour hike in the fresh air, with smells of pines and blossoming flowers. Bulguk-sa was designed to incorporate terraces made for walking, and it was believed that you could enter the world of Buddha by passing through its wooden gates. At the end of a forested path, a giant Buddha effigy is sheltered in the cave of Seokguram. Perhaps counterintuitively, we recommend walking uphill to let your excitement build, followed by a bus ride down.
The Kakao Maps app shows you what percentage of a route is on cycle paths, how many intersections and bridges must be crossed, and how steep the route is. The cycling estimate for the 14.8km (9 miles) from the city center to Bulguk-sa is about 1 hour across 11 intersections.
Gyeongju has plenty of flat cycling paths through blossoming fields and village rice paddies that can make one feel like a local wheeling between errands. One day I might even get to live out my K-drama fantasies of pedaling between the rolling green tumuli on a tandem bicycle with my sweetheart and a giant map. In the meantime, I’m convinced that one afternoon of cycling around Gyeongju makes up for snacking on a dozen servings of sweet red-bean Gyeongju bread along the way. It’s what the Silla royalty would have wanted.
A similar and more economical option is to hire a taxi for the day. If you do want to hire a car, ask at your hotel or around the bus and train terminals.
Once at the major sights, you’ll find paths for wheelchairs and baby strollers; the historic area around Tumuli Gongwon an especially lovely network of paths. Even Bolguk-sa is wheelchair- and baby-stroller-accessible (with free rentals, too), though you will be restricted to the lower level.
Regrettably, Gyeongju offers few facilities for visitors with vision impairment.
Find out more on Lonely Planet’s accessible travel resource page.
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