With the enviable claim to fame of being Germany’s sunniest city, Freiburg is also one of its most eco-friendly.
Ever since a protest by residents in 1975 halted the construction of a nuclear generator on nearby farmland, the city has been a beacon of sustainability and citizen-led action. From cycle paths to communal gardens, and from a town hall clad entirely in solar panels to a tangible enthusiasm for local produce and outdoor pursuits, everything in this youthful University town is done with a conscience.
But Freiburg still showcases everything there is to love about Germany's smaller cities, from brightly painted half-timbered houses lining a cobblestone square to rowdy breweries serving up full beer mugs and huge schnitzels and ornate medieval gates guarding the walled city.
If you’re looking for a German getaway where it's easy to keep on top of your carbon footprint, look no further. Here's our pick of the top things to do in Freiburg.
Look out for the blue bicycle logo that marks the route of the FR1, a dedicated bike highway that straddles the Dreisam River. Starting in the old town, this lovely transect sails past community gardens, the old football stadium, sculpture parks, the Mundenhof animal sanctuary and plenty of street art. Take a pit stop at Cafe Extrablatt and fuel up on their popular weekend buffet breakfasts or grab a coffee before you pedal on your way.
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Germany’s first completely solar-powered football ground, Europa Park Stadium was completed in late 2021 after the Bundesliga club outgrew their old home ground. The 37,000 seat stadium is fitted out with charging spots for electric vehicles, e-bikes and e-scooters and has almost 4,000 bicycle parking spots, and it's on track to become climate neutral.
If you can’t score tickets, don a red scarf and join supporters at a local pub – Heimliche Kneipe (Secret Pub) and O'Kelly's Irish pub both attract a sporting crowd.
Adventure lovers can cruise downhill on the 8km (5 mile) off-road scooter track, one of Europe’s longest. When it’s time to warm up, there’s nothing better than cozying up near the crackling fire as you take in the superb snowy views of the Rhine Valley from Die Bergstation restaurant (the fondue comes highly recommended).
These historic channels served as drainage in medieval times but and after the introduction of modern sewer systems, they were preserved as a nostalgic reminder of Freiburg's long history. Most importantly, the flow of clean water from the Dreisam helps cool the urban microclimate, so don’t be afraid to slip off your shoes and dip your toes in the cool water. Who knows, you might just find a new spouse!
When it comes to the shopping, stop in at Glaskiste, a wholesome supermarket with a strict no-plastic policy, for local produce. Just around the corner, you’ll find beautiful organic clothing at Zündstoff’s corner boutique.
Visitors can accompany the keepers on their daily feeding rounds from 2:30pm from March to October, and kids will also love getting their hands dirty in the educational on-site petting zoo known as KonTiKi. All the hay and grain needed to feed the animals is grown on the surrounding land – this is how every zoo should operate! Best of all, entry is free, but donations are welcome.
Locals go pretty wild around April when spargelsaison (white asparagus season) begins – there’s nowhere better to try this tender delicacy than at Griestal-Strausse, a local winery in the hills outside Freiburg. Outside of asparagus season, try the kürbiscremesuppe (pumpkin cream soup) or the flammkuchen, a crispy, pizza-like cheese-topped bread typical of the region.
Then, there are the co-op supermarkets, organic cafes, cute playgrounds and the community petting zoo. As you wander, you'll spot rooftop gardens, food-sharing pantries, organic waste digesters, conflict-resolution workshops and bike paths. Decide for yourself if this is a glimpse into Europe's bright future, or a one-off utopian dream!
Don’t leave without trying the legendary lange rote (literally "Long Red") – a crispy, 35cm (14in) pork sausage doused in mustard. Get here early to sample a piece of the famous käsekuchen (cheesecake) from Stefans; just look out for the bright yellow van.
At the top, push on and climb an extra 400 steps to reach the top of the observation tower, perched above the trees with panoramic views of the Black Forest, the Rhine plain and the old town below. In winter, the trees are often dusted with snow, while summer promises epic sunsets. At the end of July, Schlossberg transforms into a giant stage as live bands and DJs take over the beer garden and surrounding areas for the annual Schlossberg Festival.
When it’s too cold or wet for sightseeing, warm your bones in the therapeutic waters of Keidel Mineral Thermal Spa. Mineral-rich thermal water from a local spring will leave you feeling rejuvenated while back and neck jets release your tight muscles. There’s also a sauna, but it's communal and clothing free, as is the German tradition. Visit mid-week to avoid the crowds.
Both breweries are still run by their respective families, and a tour of Ganter is a great way to learn more about how they balance tradition with modern technology. End with a beer tasting and snacks in the beer garden. You’ll either be horrified or thrilled to hear they offer a very special local drop, Weir – a half beer and half wine concoction. Prost!
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Freiburg is on our 2022 Best of Travel list. For more stories from some of the world’s most exciting destinations click here.
Safety recommendations and restrictions during a pandemic can change rapidly. Lonely Planet recommends that travelers always check with local authorities for up-to-date guidance before traveling during Covid-19.