One of Indonesia’s most celebrated artists, Affandi (1907–90) lived and worked in a wonderfully quirky self-designed riverside studio, about 6km east of the centre. Today it's the Affandi Museum, a must for any self-respecting art lover. It has an extensive collection of his abstract paintings, the expressionist style of which features distinctive brush strokes reminiscent of Van Gogh.

　　Affandi’s artistic touch extends to the musholla (prayer room), which occupies a converted horse carriage painted in technicolour tones. It looks like a psychedelic gypsy cart. His car is a real boy-racer’s dream: a lime-green-and-yellow customised 1967 Galant with an oversized rear spoiler.

　　There's also a gallery dedicated to Affandi's wife and children, who are artists in their own right. There’s a great little cafe here screening a documentary on Affandi's life, and the entry ticket includes a drink or ice cream. Catch bus 1A from Jl Malioboro (Sosrowijayan) to reach the museum.