This large fish market bustles with traders selling row upon colourful row of the sea's bounty from the ice bars. It's busiest early in the day when wholesalers head here to buy up prawns, red snapper, blue-shelled crabs and pink Sultan Ibrahims.

　　For a memorable lunch or supper for under Dhs50, buy your fish at the market from the folk in blue (per kilogram Dhs25 to Dhs35), and take it to the folk in red in the gutting and filleting station (per kilogram Dhs2). Take the fillets next door (alongside the dry-fish section) and jostle with seafarers for your favourite spices. Then give your purchases to the cooks at one of the attached small canteens, who will make it into a fire-hot Kerala fish curry or simply grill it rubbed in salt and lemon (per kilogram Dhs15). Take the finished dish on to the dhow harbour outside, and sit on a lobster pot to eat it! It doesn't get fresher than that.