Ancona is often written off as just another gritty port. In fact, there's more to this historic city than ferries and transport connections, and to bypass it would be to miss much. It was founded by Greek settlers from Syracuse around 387 BC and its old town, crowned by a dramatically sited cathedral, harbours many reminders of its long history: archaeological artefacts, Roman arches, Romanesque churches, and Renaissance palazzi that glow softly in the evening light. Linger long enough in the hilltop parks, lively boulevards and cafe-rimmed piazzas and you'll start to see another, more likeable side to Le Marche's seafront capital.