Behind a nondescript sliding door hides this choose-your-own-adventure foodie dreamland. Chef Josh Habiger (Catbird Seat, Patterson House) has cultivated Nashville's hottest table – or three tables, to be precise, plus 11 kitchen counter seats. Choose from a seasonally changing checklist menu of 15 delicate, intensely satisfying plates or check the box that says, 'One of each.'

　　Score a reservation in advance with a $25 deposit, and prepare to be gastronomically wooed by dishes such as Konro-grilled black sea bass in black tea and bonito spinach puree. Arrive early and indulge in a craft cocktail ($13 to $15) at the tiny copper-plated bar. Enter the intimate dining room grooving to Drive-By Truckers or Wilco on the turntable (don't touch it – that's Habiger's domain!). Bastion's main bar next door is equally worth your time, with a separate cocktail menu ($9 to $13) served below incandescent bulbs, while patrons munch house nachos on wooden bleachers.