Painted recently as part of a street-art festival, there are 50 colourful and thought-provoking murals scattered across central Napier and Ahuriri. Pick up the Sea Walls: Artists for Oceans map from the Napier i-SITE and have a wander past various works reinforcing and celebrating the well-being of oceanic ecosystems. ...

　　Around the shore at Ahuriri, the National Tobacco Company Building (1932) is arguably the region’s deco masterpiece, combining art-deco forms with the natural motifs of art nouveau. Roses, raupo (bulrushes) and grapevines frame the elegantly curved entrance. During business hours, pull on the leaf-shaped brass door handles and enter the...

　　Inside this modern complex with its stingray-inspired roof are piranhas, terrapins, eels, kiwi, tuatara and a whole lotta fish. Snorkellers can swim with sharks ($100), or sign up for a 'Little Penguin Close Encounter' ($70). The penguins get a feed at 9.30am, 1.30pm and 3.30pm, the reef fish at 10am...

　　The beating cultural heart of Napier is the smart-looking MTG – a gleaming-white museum-theatre-gallery space by the water. The MTG showcases live performances, film screenings and regularly changing gallery and museum displays (earthquake gallery, Māori heritage, social history), along with touring and local exhibitions. Napier's rather lovely public library (www.napierlibrary.co.nz)...

　　Respectable, reasonably priced wines, and a rustic cafe with regular live troubadours. A good stop for lunch or a glass of rosé (preferably both), best consumed around the fire pit. ...

　　The convoluted route to the top of Bluff Hill (102m) goes up and down like an elevator on speed (best to drive), but rewards intrepid mountaineers with expansive views across the busy port. Bring a picnic or some fish and chips. ...

　　The Daily Telegraph is one of the stars of Napier's art-deco show, with superb zigzags, fountain shapes and a symmetrically patterned facade. If the front doors are open, nip inside and ogle the painstakingly restored foyer (it's a resource management office these days). There's a folder of amazing old photos...

　　Napier's elegant seaside avenue is lined with huge Norfolk Island pines, and dotted with motels and charming timber villas. Along its length are parks, quirky sunken gardens, a mini-golf course, a skate park, a sound shell, a swim centre and an aquarium. Near the north end of the parade is...