A dainty but strong-willed metropolis, Cajamarca is cradled in a languid valley and stonewalled by brawny mountains in every direction. The most important town in the Northern Highlands, its mushroom field of red-tile-roofed abodes surely confesses a secret desire to cling to its village roots. Fertile farmland carpets the entire valley and Cajamarca’s streets belong as much to the wide-brimmed-hat-wearing campesinos (peasants) bundled in brightly colored scarves as they do to the young city slickers who frequent the town's boutique restaurants and bars.