An unmatched architectural treasure in a city defined by its otherworldly Modernista buildings, Unesco-listed Casa Batlló is undoubtedly one of Antoni Gaudí’s great jewels.
Created between 1904 and 1906 for the wealthy Batlló family, the once-private home on glamorous Passeig de Gràcia combines a shimmering tile-covered facade, bone-evoking stone columns, a dragon-back-shaped rooftop and undulating marine-world forms with revolutionary advances in both light and architecture. This is Gaudí at his whimsical, nature-inspired peak.
As you gaze at the building’s swirling shapes, delicate trencadís (smashed-up tilework) and curving design (Gaudí avoided straight lines as nature doesn’t have any), the whole place feels almost alive. For many people, the legend of Sant Jordi (Saint George – the patron saint of Catalonia) and the Dragon runs through the entire structure, and you’ll certainly feel this up on the unmissable rooftop.
Unlike Gaudí’s neighboring, also-spectacular La Pedrera (Casa Milà), which was originally conceived as apartments and offices, Casa Batlló was a custom-designed residential home from the beginning and most of the privately owned building is now open to visitors.
Casa Amatller next to the facade of Casa Batlló makes for quite the Modernista spectacle © Tom Lau / Getty Images
Casa Batlló is flanked on one side by the 1900 Casa Amatller (designed by Modernista architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch), while the 1905 Casa Lleó Morera (courtesy of Lluís Domènech i Montaner) sits a few doors down. Jointly known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord), these three fantastical buildings are a testament both to the many whims of Catalonia’s Modernisme movement and the enormous local wealth poured into their creation.
A wildly beautiful canvas of blue, green and purple trencadís tilework ripples across the exterior – many experts liken it to the French Impressionist Claude Monet’s famous Water Lilies. Each April, during Barcelona’s Sant Jordi festivities, the balconies are decorated with swirls of red roses.
Continuing on, Gaudí’s clever use of natural light means the ocean-blue lightwell feels almost like a moving wave. At the back of the building, tile-covered plant pots and more than 300 pieces of trencadís adorn the back terrace, which was designed as a hidden retreat in the thick of the city.
The sparkling roof has the shape of a dragon’s back – its scale-like tiles even change color depending on where it’s glimpsed from, and the four-armed cross is said to represent Sant Jordi’s sword.
The incredible beauty of Casa Battló continues throughout the building © imagIN.gr photography / Shutterstock
Another surprise is the bold "intervention" by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, who has breathed new life into the building’s emergency staircase with a rippling multi-floor aluminum-chain curtain that continues Gaudí’s play with light, shapes and space.
If you'd prefer to sidestep the crowds, the best time to visit is either first thing in the morning or towards closing time, and ideally outside peak summer months when the city in general is less busy. "Be the First" tickets (adult/child €45/free under 12) bag you entry at around 8.30am, with just a few other visitors for company.