Milan’s most eccentric museum of 20th-century Italian painting is crowded in a 1930s apartment that still has the appearance of the haute-bourgeois home it once was. It’s a heady art hit, with Boccioni’s dynamic brushstrokes propelling painting towards futurism; the nostalgically metaphysical Campigli and de Chirico; and the restless, expressionist Informels all packed into small salons decked with suitably avant-garde furnishings.