Weave your way through the makeshift kitchens inside Marché des Enfants Rouges to find Alain, a retired baker sporting T-shirts with attitude, whose passion, humour and food are legendary. Watch him prepare you a monster sandwich or galette (savoury crêpe) on a sizzling griddle from fresh, organic ingredients – grated fennel, smoked air-dried beef, avocado, sesame salt and prized honeys.

　　If you'd prefer to sit in peace to enjoy your Chez Alain feast, head around the corner to his cafe at 26 rue Charlot, 3e.