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Chez Étienne-September 2024

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Sep 16, 2024

　　Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade tomato sauce, fresh herbs and mozzarella. You can't book (there's no phone), and you need to bring cash, but the atmosphere and food (not just pizza, but also seafood and Marsellais standards) are worth the effort.

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Must-see attractions

Jardin du Pharo

　　Perched high above the southern side of the Vieux Port are the six immaculately grassed hectares of the Jardin du Pharo, the grounds of the Palais du Pharo, which was commissioned by Napoleon III in 1852. With unparalleled views over old Marseille, the gardens are a perfect picnic spot and...

Château d’If

　　Commanding access to Marseille's Vieux Port, this photogenic island-fortress was immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ 1844 classic The Count of Monte Cristo. Many political prisoners were incarcerated here, including the Revolutionary hero Mirabeau and the Communards of 1871. Other than the island itself there’s not a great deal to see, but...

Musée d’Histoire de Marseille

　　This intriguing 15,000-sq-metre museum traces the story of 'France's Oldest City' from prehistory (the paintings of the Cosquer Cave) to the present day, across 12 chronological exhibitions. The complex was built beside the remains of a Greek harbour uncovered during construction of the Bourse shopping centre. Highlights include the remains...

　　Five kilometres south of central Marseille, this 17th-century park encompasses a lake, a miniature of the Notre-Dame de la Garde cathedral, a botanical garden and the graceful 18th-century Château Borély, which houses the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, de la Faïence et de la Mode. ...

　　Family photos and veteran service staff hint at the longevity of this Le Panier favourite, known for authentic, hand-thrown pizza, topped with homemade tomato sauce, fresh herbs and mozzarella. You can't book (there's no phone), and you need to bring cash, but the atmosphere and food (not just pizza, but...

　　Intended as much to control the citizens of Marseille as guard them from external threat, Fort St-Jean was built by Louis XIV in 1660 on the site of a 13th-century Hospitaller fortress. Incorporating 13th- and 15th-century elements, it's faced by its twin, Fort St-Nicolas, across the narrow entry to the...

　　This long-standing classic in a 1940s seaside hotel with Mediterranean views has plenty of atmosphere, however kitschy. Although this is one of the most reliable spots for authentic bouillabaisse, consider ordering the other Marseillais seafood classic, bourride (per person €63, minimum two people), a garlicky close cousin brimming with aioli....

　　On the 1st floor of Hôtel Bellevue, this lovely little bar is styled with rich wood and leather, with a zinc bar and yellowing murals that hint of its 1920s pedigree. If it’s sunny, snag a coveted spot on the portside terrace, and sip a pastis as you watch the...

La Cité Radieuse

　　Visionary modernist architect Le Corbusier redefined urban living in 1952 with the completion of this vertical 337-apartment tower, popularly known as La Cité Radieuse ('The Radiant City'). Its purpose was to increase residential density to allow for more green space. Today the apartments are joined by the Hôtel Le Corbusier,...

　　This swanky restaurant has a Michelin star and knockout water-level views from an elegantly austere dining room. Many splurge on what may be Marseille’s top bouillabaisse – which comes as part of a four-course menu – and on the superb cellar, which leans heavily towards French whites. ...

Intercontinental Marseille – Hôtel Dieu

　　Occupying a heritage-listed 18th-century hospital, the Hôtel Dieu, the Intercontinental Marseille has a commanding position in Le Panier overlooking the Vieux Port. The grand U-shaped pile features tall arched windows framed by local golden-hued stone and masonry. Within, the 179 rooms and 15 suites are suitably polished, while the best...

　　Marseille's most vibrant bohemian quarter centres on Cours Julien, an elongated concrete square shaded by palm trees. It’s lined with great bars, cafes and music venues, and its street-art-slathered side-streets are home to a wealth of bookshops, galleries, tattoo parlours and ethnic restaurants. Markets are held in the square on...

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