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El Parián-December 2024

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Dec 4, 2024

　　A rambling 19th century complex in Tlaquepaque made up of dozens of small cantinas that all share one huge courtyard occupied by droves of mariachi. From Thursday to Monday, bands battle and jockey for your ears, applause and cash in the central bandstand for about an hour from 3:30pm and then again from 9:30pm

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Must-see attractions

Instituto Cultural de Cabañas

　　Standing proudly at the eastern end of dramatic Plaza Tapatía is one of Guadalajara’s architectural landmarks, and a Unesco World Heritage site since 1997. On the ceiling and inside the dome of the striking neoclassical Capilla Mayor (Main Chapel) is a most unexpected series of modernist murals by José Clemente...

Mercado San Juan de Dios

　　Massive – at 40,000 sq metres, it's the largest indoor market in Latin America – and labyrinthine and selling pretty much everything bar the kitchen sink, what is officially called Mercado Libertad is best foraged for its street food, in particular its tortas ahogadas made with a crispy sub roll...

Palacio de Gobierno

　　The golden-hued Palacio de Gobierno, which houses the Jalisco state government offices, was finished in 1774 and is well worth visiting to see two impressive murals by local artist José Clemente Orozco (1883–1949). The real head-turner is the 400-sq-metre mural of Miguel Hidalgo painted in 1937 that dominates the main...

Museo Pantaleón Panduro

　　This superb collection of over 500 pieces of national folk art is housed in a converted religious mission and includes well-displayed miniature figurines, as well as enormous, lightly fired urns and other ceramic crafts from all over the country. Its focus is on winners of the prestigious National Pantaleón Panduro...

Basílica de Zapopan

　　One of the city's most important churches, the Basílica de Zapopan, built in 1730, is home to Nuestra Señora de Zapopan, a petite statue of the Virgin visited by pilgrims year-round. Since 1734 on October 12, thousands of kneeling faithful crawl behind as the statue is carried here from Guadalajara...

Guachimontones Archaeological Site

　　Just 40km west of Guadalajara is the fascinating and distinctive archaeological site known as Guachimontones – one of the only ancient ruins in the world whose structures were built in nearly perfect concentric circles, including a massive conical step pyramid. Easy to reach as a day trip, the site has...

Tonalá Street Market

　　On Thursday and Sunday, Tonalá bursts into a huge street market that sprouts on Avenida Tonaltecas and crawls through dozens of streets and alleys and takes hours to explore. With torta (sandwich), taco and michelada (beer and tomato juice) stands aplenty, the whole area takes on a carnival vibe. The...

Plaza de la Liberación

　　This huge plaza due east of the cathedral was a 1980s urban planner’s dream project – two whole blocks of colonial buildings to be knocked down and replaced with a concrete slab. Today, it's a popular meeting spot lined with leafy trees, benches, shoe shining booths and the iconic 'Guadalajara'...

　　The fabulously wide pedestrian and elevated Plaza Tapatía sprawls for more than 500m eastward from Teatro Degollado to the Instituto Cultural de Cabañas. Stroll the length of the plaza on Sunday and you'll find yourself in a sea of locals who shop at low-end crafts markets, snack (from both street...

Museo Nacional de la Cerámica

　　Among the best of the many ceramics museums in the greater Guadalajara region, this one focuses largely on works from Tonalá, arguably the finest in central Mexico. Among the most memorable styles are barro bruñido and barro canela. Located in the one-time home of Jorge Wilmot, an artist best known...

Catedral de Guadalajara

　　Guadalajara’s cathedral is the city’s most conspicuous landmark with distinctive neo-Gothic towers built after an earthquake toppled the originals in 1818. Begun in 1561 and consecrated in 1618, the building is almost as old as the city itself. Time your visit right and you’ll see light filter through stained-glass of...

Plaza de los Mariachis

　　Just south of Avenida Javier Mina and the Mercado San Juan de Dios, this is the very birthplace of mariachi music. By day it’s just a narrow walking street, flanked by charming old buildings and dotted with a few plastic tables and chairs, with the odd mariachi musician in full...

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