There's no finer showcase for modern Tuscan cuisine than this loft-style restaurant in a 19th-century warehouse. Preparing dishes at the kitchen bar in rolled-up shirt sleeves and navy butcher's apron is dazzling young chef Simone Cipriani. Order one of his tasting menus to sample the full range of his inventive, thoroughly modern cuisine inspired by classic Tuscan dishes.

　　If you're lucky, it will be the chef himself who brings the dish to your table and treats you to a detailed explanation: don't miss the tale behind his remarkable Fior d'Evo dessert, notably with kale (another of his desserts includes artichokes). Reservations essential.