Head down to the Kivukoni fish market in the early morning to see fishers flog their catch to restauranteurs and homemakers with all the zeal of Wall St stockbrokers. The market is divided into two main sections, comprising eight zones, one of which is the auction. In other sections fish are cleaned, cooked and resold at marked-up prices. It’s colourful and chaotic, and you could walk away with a handsome snapper for as little as Tsh3000.

　　Some stalls do still sell shells, but the purchase of them is ill-advised for environmental reasons, and their export is prohibited.