Between Dhërmi and Vuno is the turn-off for this little-known gem, a gorgeous stretch of isolated white sand and rock backed by big cliffs – and as yet almost entirely undeveloped. Turn off the main road for the Monastery of St Theodor and follow signs for the one-hour (3.5km) hike down to the beach. By car, carry on down the road until the paving ends then walk the last 20 minutes (1km).