The Aya Sofya (officially the Ayasofya-i Kebir Cami-i Şerifi, or the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque) is one of the Byzantine Empire’s surviving architectural marvels. Right in the heart of İstanbul’s historic center, this sacred building remains – even today – an important symbol of power.
Commissioned by Emperor Justinian, consecrated as the Hagia Sophia (Church of Divine Wisdom) in 537, converted to a mosque by Sultan Mehmet II (Mehmet the Conqueror) in 1453, declared a museum by Atatürk in 1935, and reconverted into a working mosque in 2020; the Aya Sofya’s changing status mirrors the history of İstanbul, tracking it through its period as Constantinople, capital of first the Byzantine, then Ottoman empires, up to the modern era when this sprawling metropolis remains central to Turkey’s story.
Come to boggle at the sheer audacity of Justinian’s vision, which raised history’s first pendentive dome atop a church so large its size would not be surpassed for nearly 1000 years. Then take in how this venerable structure’s design has merged Byzantine opulence with Ottoman grandeur down through the centuries and experience how today its religious significance has not diminished.
Make sure to spy the 10th century mosaic on the lunette of the doorway leading from the southwest vestibule to the inner narthex. It shows the Virgin Mary holding the Christ child, flanked by Emperor Justinian (on her left) offering her Hagia Sophia and Emperor Constantine (to her right) handing her Constantinople.
In the inner narthex, the central 7m (23ft) high, oak and brass Imperial Door, leading into the prayer hall, was originally closed to all but the Byzantine emperor’s procession. Look up to see one of the Aya Sofya’s finest mosaics in the lunette above the doorway. The glittering gold tesserae of this 9th century mosaic depicts an enthroned Christ with Emperor Leo IV bowing at his feet.
Above, a multitude of chandeliers are strung from the soaring ceiling. Eight mammoth medallions, inscribed in gilt with the names of god, the Prophet Muhammad and the first caliphs, hover atop the cornice of the marble-paneled walls, while geometric designs creep up the yellow plastered semi-domes, domes and arches overhead.
A large group of visitors admiring the interior of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque © Getty ImagesAs you enter you might notice people crowding around the hall’s northwestern corner. Local legend tells that the pillar here was blessed by St Gregory the Miracle Worker. Known as the Weeping Column, its copper facing has been worn away by centuries of believers rubbing against it seeking a cure for their ailments.
The apse is fronted by an ornate mihrab (prayer niche indicating the direction of Mecca) while behind, the walls, studded with stained-glass windows, rise up to the semi-dome holding the 9th century mosaic of the Virgin and Christ child now hidden behind curtains.
As well as the apse mosaic being curtained, the main interior change after 2020’s mosque reconversion is the vast teal-colored carpet now laid across the marble floor. The square section of inlaid-stone, known as the omphalion, in the southeast of the hall, has been left uncovered. The omphalion’s unique design of 30 circles, made from red and green porphyry, granite and verd antique, marks the spot where new emperors were crowned.
Four seraphim (angels) grace the pendentives. Two are the original mosaics (eastern pendentives) while the two fresco seraphim date from the 1847 restoration. Local legend tells that they protect the city from disaster.
If you are not here to pray and are allowed in during prayer time be aware that you will not be able to wander freely through the prayer hall as a large section is cordoned off for worshippers. Prayer times change throughout the year; check current times on Turkey’s official prayer times website.
The most popular time to visit is between 9am and 11.30am. Expect crowds and queuing any time before 5pm.