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Hilo
Kailua-Kona may host more visitors, but Hilo is the beating heart of Hawai‘i Island. Hidden beneath its daily drizzle lies deep soil and soul, from which sprouts a genuine community and aloha spirit. Hilo's demographics still mirror its sugar-town roots, with a diverse mix of Native Hawaiians, Japanese, Filipinos, Portuguese, Puerto Ricans, Chinese and Caucasians.
Experience the real
  Rocky and rugged, these side-by-side beaches (commonly known by their former name, Leleiwi Beach) aren't sandy or calm, but they're Hilo's best shore-dive site. You might see turtles, coral formations and a variety of butterfly fish. No beginners; entry into the water is tricky (consult a dive shop) and waves...
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