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Holguín
The nation’s fourth-largest city serves up authentic provincial Cuba without the wrapping paper. Though the city of San Isidoro de Holguín barely features in Cuba’s tourist master plan, there’s magic and mystery here for a certain type of traveler. There's an overabundance of shiny vintage Chevys, plazas filled with uniformed school children sharing wi-fi and interactions not marred by rushing or selling. Use it as a window to life in the interior: from the religious solemnity of the annual procession climbing Loma de la Cruz to the exuberant cheers pouring forth from the oversized baseball stadium.
Experience the real
  Laid out in 1848, rebuilt in 1918 and renovated only recently, this gleaming square is dominated by bronze busts and an impressive covered marketplace housing a cafe and artisan stalls. Running along the north and south sides of the plaza are myriad shops selling music, crafts and cigars. ...
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