Destroyed by the Mongols, the sparse remnants of this fortified palace have been undergoing excavation since 1951 and now a fine reconstruction of the palace walls, complete with minaret and battlements, has been completed. Seen from the main road driving east, it seems to loom out of nowhere (8km west of Vose) and is an impressive sight. It's not possible to enter the ruins but a small museum opposite offers some helpful interpretation including a large model of the site.

　　It’s worth taking a good look at the model as it helps visualise in three dimensions how this part of the western Pamir Hwy climbs only minimally towards Khorog – the heavy-duty ascent across the Pamir plateau is left to the eastern part of the highway after Khorog.

　　Between the 9th and 11th centuries, Hulbuk Palace was at the centre of one of the four biggest cities of Central Asia and the seat of the Shah of Khatlon. The palace guarded a giant salt hill which was of great value at the time as the source of one of three precious resources (together with gold and horses) traded along the silk routes.

　　The enthusiastic curator insists on showing visitors around the several rooms of his museum and kindly dispenses homemade handkerchiefs at the end of the tour. It seems churlish not to go with the flow but it's not one to visit if time is short!