The beach here, a mostly lovely arc of white sand with clear blue water, has views across to Gunung Agung in Bali. The pleasant seawall walkway is ideal for strolling, especially – as you'd guess – at sunset. Floating boats save the scene from being an idyllic cliché. The once redolent odour of drying farmed seaweed is fading away as all available land is turned over to tourism.