Twenty-eight miles north of Haines is Kroschel's Wildlife Center, run by an ex-Hollywood animal trainer. There are 15 species of Alaskan wildlife here, including bears, lynx and wolves, and the feeling is definitely less zoo and more wild. Tours are by appointment only (and strongly tailored for the cruise crowd); you won't be able to enter if you simply show up. Add $25 extra for round-trip transport.