The fantastic Kumtepa Bazaar, 5km west of Margilon centre, is a time capsule full of weathered Uzbek men in traditional clothing exchanging solemn greetings and gossiping over endless pots of tea. Rows of handmade khanatlas and adras silk, available from just 5000S per metre, are both the shopping and the visual highlight. It’s probably the most interesting bazaar in the country. The busiest day is Sunday, but it also works on Thursday.

　　Margilon’s traditional streak is in full view here, with Uzbek matrons dressed almost exclusively in the locally produced khanatlas dresses and head scarves and men in skullcaps and chapan (heavy quilted jacket).

　　Take a shared taxi (2000S per person) or 'Bozor' marshrutka (1000S) from Margilon to get here. A taxi from Fergana costs around 6000S.