Take a web of grimy courtyards, a load of paint and a bunch of visionary Dresden artists and out comes the Kunsthofpassage, one of the most refreshingly artistic spaces in the Neustadt. Each courtyard has its own charm, but favourites include the Court of the Elements, where 'music' is created by water running down interlinked rain pipes affixed to a turquoise facade, and the Court of the Animals, where monkeys leap above the head of a giant giraffe.