Slick and stylish in places, a little ragged around the edges in others, Kuwait City is an intriguing mix of wealthy Gulf metropolis and tough neighbourhood of a sprawling Arab city. Attractions are many: the landmark triple towers loom over a clean and accessible corniche, and there's a first-class aquarium, some excellent museums and an atmospheric souq. Meanwhile, the selection of restaurants will whet the appetite of the fussiest gourmand. Add to its sights and attractions a harrowing layer of modern history, the effects of which rumble invisibly below the surface, and there's enough to keep most visitors intrigued for days.