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Le Régina-September 2024

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Sep 19, 2024

　　Originally Queen Victoria’s wintering palace, this monumental edifice was subsequently converted into apartments. In the 1940s Matisse lived here, using one unit as a studio and another as his home, and it was here that the artist passed away in 1954. Visitors can admire the building from the outside while waiting for a bus downhill from the Matisse Museum.

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Must-see attractions

　　Getting lost among the dark, narrow, winding alleyways of Nice’s old town is a highlight. The layout has barely changed since the 1700s, and it’s now packed with delis, restaurants, boutiques and bars, but the centrepiece remains cours Saleya: a massive market square that’s permanently thronging in summer. The food...

Les Distilleries Idéales

　　The most atmospheric spot for a tipple in the old town, whether you’re after one of the many beers on tap or a local wine by the glass. Brick-lined and set out over two floors (with a little balcony that’s great for people-watching), it’s packed until late. Happy hour is...

Colline du Château

　　For the best views over Nice’s red-tiled rooftops, climb the winding staircases up to this wooded outcrop on the eastern edge of the old town. It’s been occupied since ancient times; archaeological digs have revealed Celtic and Roman remains, and the site was later occupied by a medieval castle that...

　　This museum, 2km north of the city centre in the leafy Cimiez quarter, houses a fascinating assortment of works by Matisse, including oil paintings, drawings, sculptures, tapestries and Matisse’s famous paper cut-outs. The permanent collection is displayed in a red-ochre 17th-century Genoese villa in an olive grove. Temporary exhibitions are...

Cours Saleya Markets

　　Split between its beautiful flower market and rightly famous food market. On Mondays, flowers and food make way for a flea market. ...

Musée National Marc Chagall

　　The strange, dreamlike and often unsettling work of the Belarusian painter Marc Chagall (1887–1985) is displayed at this museum, which owns the largest public collection of the painter’s work. The main hall displays 12 huge interpretations (1954–67) of stories from Genesis and Exodus. From the city centre, allow about 20...

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain

　　European and American avant-garde works from the 1950s to the present are the focus of this sprawling multilevel museum. Highlights include many works by Christo and Nice’s neorealists: Niki de Saint Phalle, César, Arman and Yves Klein. The building’s rooftop also works as an exhibition space (with knockout panoramas of...

Musée Masséna

　　Originally built as a holiday home for Prince Victor d’Essling (the grandson of one of Napoléon's favourite generals, Maréchal Massena), this lavish belle époque building is another of the city’s iconic architectural landmarks. Built between 1898 and 1901 in grand neoclassical style with an Italianate twist, it’s now a fascinating...

Promenade des Anglais

　　The most famous stretch of seafront in Nice – if not France – is this vast paved promenade, which gets its name from the English expat patrons who paid for it in 1822. It runs for the whole 4km sweep of the Baie des Anges with a dedicated lane for...

Kiosque Chez Tintin

　　A true local institution, this friendly little kiosk makes some of Nice's best pan bagnat – Niçois sandwiches piled high with tuna and veggies and slathered in olive oil. Locals flock here before or after a visit to the nearby Libération market. ...

Olive et Artichaut

　　There’s barely enough room to swing a pan in this tiny street bistro, especially when it’s full of diners (as it often is), but it doesn’t seem to faze young Niçois chef Thomas Hubert and his friendly team. He sources as much produce as possible from close-to-home suppliers (Sisteron lamb,...

Le Comptoir du Marché

　　With its vintage kitchen decor and great-value prices, the Comptoir does predictably well. There are five or six daily mains, scribbled on a chalkboard. The cuisine is a modern twist on traditional French recipes, with lots of offals and staples such as magret de canard (duck breast), confit rabbit and...

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