Still known to many as Limassol, Lemesos is one of Cyprus’ most underrated cities. Although fringed on its eastern edge by a glut of bland-looking developments, the core is full of character. Wrapped around a castle, the historic centre radiates out in a web of lanes where old, shuttered houses and modern boutiques lie cheek by jowl. It’s an area buzzing with cafes, bars and restaurants that are as popular with locals as with visitors.