Ponte Vasco da Gama

Lisbon

　　Vanishing into a watery distance, the Vasco da Gama Bridge is Europe’s longest, stretching 17.2km across the Rio Tejo. ...

Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros

Lisbon

　　Hidden under the Millennium BCP bank building are layers of ruins dating from the Iron Age, discovered on a 1991 parking-lot dig. Fascinating archaeologist-led tours, run by Fundacão Millennium (booking ahead year-round is highly advisable), descend into the depths – in English or Portuguese (departing on the hour and depending...

Sé de Lisboa

Lisbon

　　The fortress-like Sé de Lisboa is one of Lisbon’s icons, built in 1150 on the site of a mosque soon after Christians recaptured the city from the Moors. It was sensitively restored in the 1930s. Despite the masses outside, the rib-vaulted interior, lit by a rose window, is calm. Stroll...

Fundação José Saramago – Casa dos Bicos

Lisbon

　　The pincushion facade of Casa dos Bicos, the eccentric 16th-century abode of Afonso de Albuquerque, former viceroy to India, grabs your attention with 1125 diamond-shape spikes (bicos). The casa houses a small museum dedicated to José Saramago (1922–2010), Portugal's most famous writer; and a newly added ground-floor excavation of Roman...

Parque Eduardo VII

Lisbon

　　An urban oasis with British roots, Parque Eduardo VII is named after his highness Edward VII, who visited Lisbon in 1903. The sloping parterre affords sweeping views over the whizzing traffic of Praça Marquês de Pombal to the river. ...

Gare do Oriente

Lisbon

　　Designed by acclaimed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the space-age Gare do Oriente is an extraordinary vaulted structure, with slender columns fanning out into a concertina roof to create a kind of geometric crystalline forest. ...

Cemitério dos Prazeres

Lisbon

　　Most visitors come to this cemetery, the largest in Lisbon, for the view of the Rio Tejo right next to the artists' plot. But the elaborate baroque family tombstones of the Portuguese aristocracy are also appealing. Take a free map from the office at the entrance and roam around freely,...

Miradouro Panorâmico de Monsanto

Lisbon

　　Lisbon’s beloved secret viewpoint is a graffiti- and art-plastered building that was once an exclusive high-society restaurant in the late 1960s. A series of bad investment decisions led to its abandonment from 2001 – although, considering the graffiti covering the walls top to bottom, it wasn’t left unvisited. It's now...

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

Lisbon

　　From bougainvillea-clad Miradouro de Santa Luzia, your gaze drifts over a mosaic of rooftops and spires to the river below. ...

Igreja de São Domingos

Lisbon

　　It’s a miracle that this baroque church dating to 1241 still stands, having barely survived the 1755 earthquake, then fire in 1959. Its sea of tea lights illuminates gashed pillars, battered walls and ethereal sculptures in its musty yet enchanting interior. Note the Star of David memorial outside, marking the...

Museu do Dinheiro

Lisbon

　　Pop into Banco do Portugal's money museum to see the stunning €34-million interior renovation of the once-mighty São Julião church (closed in 1933); and the more notable Interpretation Centre for King Dinis' Wall, a preserved 30m expanse of the 13th-century medieval city wall, located in the church's former crypt and...

Igreja & Museu São Roque

Lisbon

　　The plain facade of 16th-century Jesuit Igreja de São Roque belies its dazzling interior of gold, marble and Florentine azulejos – bankrolled by Brazilian riches. Its star attraction is Capela de São João Baptista, a lavish confection of amethyst, alabaster, lapis lazuli and Carrara marble. The museum adjoining the church...

Caminho da Água

Lisbon

　　Portuguese muralist Rigo designed this splash-happy boardwalk. Watch blue-mosaic volcanoes erupt spontaneously or relax on one of the wave-shaped benches. Forget taking a dip, though, as signs warn that bathing is forbidden. Well, there’s always the Rio Tejo… ...

Igreja da Conceição Velha

Lisbon

　　Completed in 1534 on orders from King Manuel I, Igreja da Conceição Velha is the second-oldest Manueline religious building in Lisbon. Its facade remains remarkably preserved; its interiors are considerably less wowing. ...

Feira da Ladra

Lisbon

　　Browse and haggle for buried treasures at this massive flea market. You’ll find old records, coins, baggy pants, dog-eared poetry books and other attic junk. Watch your wallet – it isn’t called ‘thieves market’ for nothing. ...

TOPO Martim Moniz

Lisbon

　　This hipster hang-out is an excellent rooftop lounge with extraordinary views over lively Praça Martim Moniz and the whole of Lisbon. It features loungey open-air wooden benches for cocktails (€8 to €14), coffee and light bites, and a covered indoor lounge. It's all set to a vibey soundtrack, often courtesy...

Cervejaria Ramiro

Lisbon

　　Opened in 1956, Ramiro has legendary status among Lisbon's seafood lovers. Here you can feast on rich plates of giant tiger prawns, percebes (goose barnacles), lobster, crab and clams, and even juicy steak sandwiches. 　　Despite the high prices, the atmosphere is bustling and informal, with garrulous crowds – albeit more...

Torre de Belém

Lisbon

　　Jutting out onto the Rio Tejo, this Unesco World Heritage–listed fortress epitomises the Age of Discoveries. You'll need to breathe in to climb the narrow spiral staircase to the tower, which affords sublime views over Belém and the river. 　　Francisco de Arruda designed this giant pearly grey chess piece in...

Miradouro da Graça

Lisbon

　　A much-loved summertime hang-out of lisboêtas, this miradouro (lookout) sidles up to the baroque Igreja da Graça. It has an incredible view of the castle sitting plump on the hillside, the river and the Ponte 25 de Abril. Sunset is prime-time viewing at the kiosk terrace. ...

Elevador de Santa Justa

Lisbon

　　If the lanky, wrought-iron Elevador de Santa Justa seems uncannily familiar, it’s probably because the neo-Gothic marvel is the handiwork of Raul Mésnier, Gustave Eiffel’s apprentice. It’s Lisbon’s only vertical street lift, built in 1902 and steam-powered until 1907. Get here early to beat the crowds and zoom to the...

100 Maneiras

Lisbon

　　How do we love 100 Maneiras? Let us count the 100 ways… The 10-course tasting menu changes twice yearly and features imaginative, delicately prepared dishes. The courses are all a surprise – part of the charm – though somewhat disappointingly, the chef will only budge so far to accommodate special...

Água Pela Barba

Lisbon

　　The marble tabletops and the walls covered in reclaimed wood give this restaurant a casual, ocean-side atmosphere despite the sea being nowhere near. Fish is the main star on the menu, with both diverse and local dishes such as tacos and pataniscas (fish fritters). Book ahead. ...

Mesa de Frades

Lisbon

　　A magical place to hear fado, tiny Mesa de Frades used to be a chapel. It’s tiled with exquisite azulejos and has just a handful of tables, including a dark and sexy mezzanine level. Shows begin at around 10.30pm. ...

Museu do Fado

Lisbon

　　Fado (traditional Portuguese melancholic song) was born in Alfama. Immerse yourself in its bittersweet symphonies at Museu do Fado. This engaging museum traces fado’s history from its working-class roots to international stardom. 　　The collection takes in discs, recordings, posters, a hall of fame and a recreated guitar workshop. Afterwards, pick...

Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira

Lisbon

　　This 17th-century former hunting pavilion is in the Benfica neighbourhood. Italian Renaissance influences are blended with Portuguese-inspired blue-and-white tiles throughout the palace and extraordinary gardens. The official residence of the Marqueses de Fronteira – who still live on premises – is one of the most unique and well-kept examples of...

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

Lisbon

　　Hitch a ride on vintage Ascensor da Glória from Praça dos Restauradores, or huff your way up steep Calçada da Glória to this terrific hilltop viewpoint. Fountains and Greek busts add a regal air to the surroundings, and the open-air kiosk doles out wine, beer and snacks, which you can...

Tram 28E

Lisbon

　　Don't leave the city without riding popular tram 28E from Largo Martim Moniz. This rickety, screechy, gloriously old-fashioned ride from Praça Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique provides 45 minutes of mood-lifting views and absurdly steep climbs. With its polished wood panelling, bee-yellow paint job and chrome fittings, the century-old...

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian – Coleção do Fundador

Lisbon

　　Famous for its outstanding quality and breadth, the world-class Founder's Collection at Museu Calouste Gulbenkian showcases an epic collection of Western and Eastern art – from Egyptian treasures to Old Master and Impressionist paintings. Admission includes the separately housed Coleção Moderna. 　　The chronological romp kicks off with highlights such as...

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga

Lisbon

　　Set in a lemon-fronted, 17th-century palace, the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is Lapa’s biggest draw. It presents a star-studded collection of European and Asian paintings and decorative arts. 　　Keep an eye out for highlights such as Nuno Gonçalves’ naturalistic Panels of St Vincent, Dürer’s St Jerome and Lucas Cranach’s...

Alfama

Lisbon

　　Wander downhill (to save your legs) through Alfama's steep, narrow, cobblestoned streets and catch a glimpse of the more traditional side of Lisbon before it too is gentrified. Linger in a backstreet cafe along the way and experience some local bonhomie without the tourist gloss. 　　As far back as the...

Castelo de São Jorge

Lisbon

　　Towering dramatically above Lisbon, these mid-11th-century hilltop fortifications sneak into almost every snapshot. Roam its snaking ramparts and pine-shaded courtyards for superlative views over the city’s red rooftops to the river. Three guided tours daily (in Portuguese, English and Spanish), at 10.30am, 1pm and 4pm, are included in the admission...

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Lisbon

　　Belém’s undisputed heart-stealer is this Unesco-listed monastery. The mosteiro is the stuff of pure fantasy: a fusion of Diogo de Boitaca’s creative vision and the spice and pepper dosh of Manuel I, who commissioned it to trumpet Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India in 1498. 　　Wrought...