Neighborhood fondas (cheap restaurants) serve cheap Panamanian classics, but this one – by Panama's top chef – delivers a massive twist. Sexy rice (concolón) has a crust of crisp perfection, served with smoked tomatoes or fragrant clams. There's also tender whole fish, yucca tostadas with carpaccio and mango kimchee served as streetside encurtido. It's overpacked, not air-conditioned and good fun. End with a massive raspado (shaved ice flavored with fruit).

　　Chef José Carles is a big proponent of Panamanian street food and local ingredients, both taken to new and thrilling heights. If you can't get a reservation for Donde José or afford it, come here. You will be happy.