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Lucerne

Recipe for a gorgeous Swiss city: take a cobalt lake ringed by mountains of myth, add a well-preserved medieval Altstadt (Old Town) and a reputation for making beautiful music, then sprinkle with covered bridges, sunny plazas, candy-coloured houses and waterfront promenades. Lucerne is stunning, and deservedly popular since the likes of Goethe, Queen Victoria and Wagner savoured its views in the 19th century. Legend has it that an angel with a light showed the first settlers where to build a chapel in Lucerne, and today it still has amazing grace.

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Experience the real

　　Just a stone’s throw from the train station, Inseli is a leafy lakefront park where locals congregate in sunny weather to lounge on the grass, play ping-pong at outdoor tables and drink at the summertime bars Volière and Buvette. From the station, head east past the Kultur und Kongresszentrum (KKL),...

Must-see attractions

　　Downriver from Kapellbrücke, this 1408 structure is dark and small but entirely original. Lore has it that this was the only bridge where Lucerne's medieval villagers were allowed to throw spreu (chaff) and leaves into the river. Here the roof panels consist of artist Caspar Meglinger’s movie-storyboard-style sequence of paintings,...

　　The medieval Old Town, with its ancient rampart walls and towers, 15th-century buildings with painted facades and two covered bridges, is fascinating. Kapellbrücke, dating from 1333, is Lucerne’s best-known landmark. It’s famous for its distinctive water tower and the spectacular 1993 fire that nearly destroyed it. Look for the 17th-century...

　　A great kid-pleaser, the fascinating interactive Verkehrshaus is deservedly Switzerland’s most popular museum. Alongside rockets, steam locomotives, aeroplanes, vintage cars and dugout canoes are hands-on activities, such as pedalo boats, flight simulators, broadcasting studios and a walkable 1:20,000-scale map of Switzerland. 　　The museum also shelters a planetarium, Switzerland's largest 3D...

Kultur und Kongresszentrum

　　French architect Jean Nouvel’s waterfront arts and convention centre is a postmodern jaw-dropper in an otherwise historic city. Inside, the tall, narrow concert hall, partly built below the lake’s surface, is surrounded by a reverberation chamber and has an adjustable suspended ceiling, all creating a bubble of silence that results...

　　For a bird’s-eye view over Lucerne’s rooftops to the glittering lake and mountains beyond, wander along the top of the old city walls that date back to 1386. A walkway is open between the Schirmerturm (tower), where you enter, and the Wachturm, from where you have to retrace your steps....

　　By far the most touching of the 19th-century sights that lured so many British to Lucerne is the Lion Monument. Lukas Ahorn carved this 10m-long sculpture of a dying lion into the rock face in 1820 to commemorate Swiss soldiers who died defending King Louis XVI during the French Revolution....

Sammlung Rosengart

　　Lucerne’s blockbuster cultural attraction is the Sammlung Rosengart, occupying a graceful neoclassical pile in the heart of town. It showcases the outstanding stash of Angela Rosengart, a Swiss art dealer and close friend of Picasso. Alongside works by the great Spanish master are paintings and sketches by Klee, Cézanne, Renoir,...

　　You haven’t really been to Lucerne until you have strolled the creaky 14th-century Kapellbrücke, spanning the Reuss River in the Old Town. The octagonal water tower is original, but its gabled roof is a modern reconstruction, rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1993. As you cross the bridge, note Heinrich...

Latest stories from Lucerne

　　The setting is incomparable at this Russian-owned, fairy-tale hilltop palace. Many rooms and suites enjoy sweeping aerial perspectives over Lake Lucerne, as do the bar and breakfast terrace. From the train station, take a taxi or catch bus 12 to Kanonenstrasse (10 minutes, plus 10-minute uphill walk). To spot it,...

Richard Wagner Museum

Hotel des Balances

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