Lukang's old commercial hub, Yaolin and Butou Sts, is now a protected heritage zone. The narrow, century-old lanes are worth checking out for their red-tiled flair and for the arty boutiques, crafts shops and old residences, as well as vendors and stores offering sweet tofu pudding, oyster croquettes or a warm pork bun. But keep in mind that the area is heavy with tourists on holidays, so set aside more time if you want to go.