Modica is one of southern Sicily's most distinctive towns, its steeply stacked medieval centre pierced by a towering baroque cathedral. But unlike some of the other Unesco-listed cities in the area, it doesn't package its assets into a single easy-to-see street or central piazza: rather, they're spread around the town and take some discovering. And while it can take a little while to orientate yourself, once you've got the measure of the bustling streets and steep staircases, you'll find a warm, genuine place with a welcoming vibe, cosmopolitan air and strong sense of pride.