The ancient walled town overlooking Mala Plaža is largely residential and somewhat dilapidated, a legacy of the 1979 earthquake. This is part of its charm – this Old Town really does feel old, with its uneven cobblestones and paucity of street lighting. Allow at least an hour to simply ramble around to your heart's content. Whatever else you find, spectacular views of Ulcinj and the beach below are guaranteed.

　　A steep slope leads to the upper gate, where just inside the walls there’s a small museum containing Roman and Ottoman artefacts and a relief map of the town. On the site is a 1510 church that was converted to a mosque in 1693; you can still see the ruined minaret.

　　Just outside the museum is a 17th-century fountain – these days, it's more like a tap – with an Arabic inscription, a crescent moon and flowers carved into the stone.

　　There has been talk for time immemorial about installing an elevator from Ulcinj's little harbour up to the Old Town, so that everyone – rather than just able-bodied types – can enjoy its ambience. Locals have stopped holding their breath.