Piccola Venezia is a tangle of small canals built during the 17th century, using Venetian methods of reclaiming land from the sea. At its heart sits the remains of the Medici-era Fortezza Nuova. Canals link this with the slightly older, waterfront Fortezza Vecchia. The waterways can be explored by canalside footpaths but a boat tour is the best way to see its shabby-chic panoramas of faded, peeling apartments draped with brightly coloured washing, interspersed with waterside cafes and bars.