No one agrees exactly where present-day Bogotá was founded – some say by the Catedral Primada on the Plaza de Bolívar; others say here, in this wee plaza lined with cafes, a small white church and many boho street vendors (or hacky-sack players).

　　It's a cute spot at any time of day, but particularly as dark comes – when students pour onto the scene – in the narrow, funnel-like alley leading past pocket-sized bars just north. On Friday afternoon (at 5pm) there are Spanish storyteller sessions – well worth a visit for the atmosphere.