Pipa is one of Brazil’s magical destinations: pristine beaches backed by tall cliffs, dreamy lagoons, decent surfing, dolphin- and turtle-filled waters, a great selection of pousadas, hostels, global restaurants and good nightlife. It was just another small, roadless fishing village when discovered by surfers in the 1970s; today Pipa rivals Jericoacoara (Ceará) as the Northeast’s hippest beach town, and attracts partygoers from Natal, João Pessoa, Recife and beyond at holidays and weekends, and a slew of international travelers year-round. Its laid-back, ecological and independent-traveler vibe still reigns and, with luck, Pipa may be just too small for that to change, despite the ranks of umbrella'ed tables along the main beaches catering to van loads of day-trippers from Natal.