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Rosario
Birthplace of the Argentine flag as well as two of the nation's most famous exports, Che Guevara and Lionel Messi, Rosario is still an important river port but has done a great job of regenerating its center. The derelict buildings of the long costanera have been converted into galleries, restaurants and skate parks, and river beaches and islands buzz with life in summer. The center – a curious mishmash of stunning early-20th-century buildings overshadowed by ugly apartments – has a comfortable, lived-in feel, and the down-to-earth rosarinos (people from Rosario) are a delight.
Experience the real
  A former army HQ, not far from where police held, tortured and killed people during the Dirty War, this museum seeks to remember the violence and victims. If you can read Spanish, you'll find it's a small but very moving display, with witness descriptions, photos of the 'Disappeared' and an...
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