The belle-époque elegance of El Sardin­ero aside, modern Santander is not the most beautiful of cities. A huge fire raged through the centre back in 1941, leaving little that’s old or quaint. Still, Cantabria’s capital is an engaging place, making the most of its setting along the northern side of the handsome Bahía de Santander, and the city's forward-facing outlook is epitomised in the striking modernist Centro Botín, which opened on the waterfront in mid-2017.