The original Ottoman-era market on this spot was burned down within a year of being built; local legends blame a careless hookah smoker for the blaze. The market was hurriedly rebuilt and it brims with stalls to this day. Sugar cane is squeezed into juice, sacks of saffron seem full to bursting, kunafeh is sliced, and sellers holler about the peerless craftsmanship of sandals, lanterns and scarves.