Spiaggia Grande probably isn't anyone's idea of a dream beach, with greyish sand covered by legions of bright umbrellas lined up like parked cars – and expensive cars at that. Hiring a chair and umbrella in the fenced-off areas costs around €20 per person per day (plus extra for showers). Fortunately, the crowded public areas are free and the toilets are spotlessly clean – as is the seawater.