It feels as if little has changed for centuries in Delhi's fabulously atmospheric, labyrinthine spice market, as labourers hustle through the narrow lanes with huge packages of herbs and spices on their heads whilst sunlight pours down through cracks in the hessian sacks hanging overhead for shade. The colours are wonderful – red chillies, yellow turmeric, green cardamons – and there's so much spice in the air, people walk around unable to suppress their sneezes.

　　There are eye-catching displays of everything from lentils and rice to giant jars of chutneys, pickles, nuts and tea, and you can buy small packets of items, despite it being a wholesale market.