Koggala Lake

Sri Lanka

　　Next to the road, Koggala Lake is alive with birdlife and dotted with islands, one of which features a Buddhist temple that attracts many visitors on poya (full moon) days, another that contains an interesting cinnamon plantation and also an (overpriced and touristy) herb-garden island. 　　You can take a 90-minute...

Elephant Transit Home

Sri Lanka

　　This complex is a halfway house for orphaned elephants. After rehabilitation, the elephants are released back into the wild, many into the Uda Walawe National Park. Although you can’t get up close and personal with the elephants, seeing them at feeding time (from a viewing platform) is still a lot...

Hotel De Pilawoos

Sri Lanka

　　Just known as Pilawoos, this open-fronted purveyor of short eats is renowned for what may be the best kotthu (rotti sliced up with cheese and other fillings and fried) in town. Expect the mighty and the humble to drop by any time to grab one; take our advice and have...

Pettah Floating Market

Sri Lanka

　　A perfect example of how quickly Colombo is changing: what was an industrial canal has been reborn as a waterfront district with simple cafes, food vendors, shops, and chairs under umbrellas for relaxing. Local couples stroll the wooden boardwalks, holding hands and pausing for simple pleasures. ...

Kalpitiya Beach

Sri Lanka

　　Kalpitiya Beach at the northern end of the peninsula consists of a long spit of sand most easily reached by boat across the Kalpitiya lagoon. It's a lovely stretch of sand, but there are few facilities here and it can get very windy – too windy to really enjoy lying...

Church Street Social

Sri Lanka

　　A classy retreat from Galle's steamy streets, this refined air-conditioned hotel restaurant is the perfect setting for a great meal, with the formality of its colonial dining rooms offset with hip lighting to eclectic effect. The menu is varied: sandwiches, wraps and burgers (Rs 1050 to 1650), starters including fine...

Mirissa Beach

Sri Lanka

　　A vision of tropical bliss, Mirissa Beach boasts powdery pale sand, while its azure water is framed by an arc of coconut palms. The west side is the nicest and has the broadest expanse of sand; as the bay curves gently around to the east it meets up with the...

Arugam Bay Beach

Sri Lanka

　　This long crescent of sand, partially shaded by coconut palms, is as good a reason as any to visit Arugam Bay. In season, its appeal to surfers is obvious but throughout the year it is simply a lovely place to kick back and unwind. The southern half of the beach...

National Museum

Sri Lanka

　　Offering a captivating walk through Sri Lankan history, this delightful Colombo museum sprawls across a gleaming white, neo-Baroque building constructed for the purpose by William Henry Gregory, Governor of Ceylon, in 1877. Rooms take you through each of Sri Lanka's historical kingdoms, with display boards explaining interesting details such as...

Dutch Hospital

Sri Lanka

　　This terracotta-tiled, Dutch-era structure dates back to the early 1600s. Beautifully restored, it's now home to trendy shops, cafes and restaurants. In the central courtyard, surrounded by low, tiled eaves and now populated with stone picnic benches, it's just possible to imagine the hospital in use, with patients lined up...

Kumana National Park

Sri Lanka

　　This 357-sq-km park, once known as Yala East, is much less frequently visited than its busy neighbour, Yala National Park. Consequently, it's a far less zoo-like experience and it never feels too crowded here, even during high season. Yes, the density of animals is lower, but it’s not rare to...

Uda Walawe National Park

Sri Lanka

　　With herds of elephants, wild buffalos, sambars and spotted deer, and giant squirrels, this Sri Lankan national park is one of the nation's finest. In fact, for elephant watching, Uda Walawe often surpasses many of the most famous East African national parks. The park, which centres on the 308.2-sq-km Uda...

Mirror Wall

The Ancient Cities

　　Beyond the Sigiriya frescoes, the path clings to the sheer side of the rock and is protected on the outside by a 3m-high wall. This wall (not the actual rock face) was coated with a smooth glaze upon which visitors felt impelled to note their impressions of the women in...

Water Gardens

The Ancient Cities

　　As you walk from the Sigiriya main entrance to the rock itself you pass a series of charming symmetrical water gardens, including curved tanks, bathing pools, little islands with pavilions that were used as dry-season palaces, and landscaped borders. ...

Lion’s Paws

The Ancient Cities

　　At the northern end of the rock, a narrow pathway emerges on to the large platform from which the site derives its name – Sigiriya (from sinha-giri) means 'Lion Rock'. HCP Bell, the British archaeologist responsible for an enormous amount of archaeology in Sri Lanka, found the two enormous lion...

Royal Gardens

The Ancient Cities

　　The base of the Sigiriya rock is a beautifully landscaped area dotted with formal water features, terraced gardens and natural boulders that were once home to numerous Buddhist shrines. It’s a beautiful place to explore away from the crowds. 　　From the main entrance you pass a series of symmetrical water...

Sigiriya

The Ancient Cities

　　Rising dramatically from the central plains, the enigmatic rocky outcrop of Sigiriya is perhaps Sri Lanka's single most dramatic sight. A set of near-vertical staircases climb past some remarkable frescoes to a flat-topped summit that contains the ruins of an ancient civilisation. The spellbinding vistas over the surrounding landscape only...

Pidurangula

The Ancient Cities

　　This prominent rock about 1km north of the Sigiriya site, offers amazing views of Sigiriya from its wide summit. It's a 20-minute hike up to the top, past several small temples, a 12.5m reclining Buddha and a final tricky scramble over boulders. Most people come at sunset (bring a torch...

Frescoes

The Ancient Cities

　　Halfway up the Sigiriya rock an open-air spiral stairway leads to a long, sheltered gallery in the sheer rock face. The paintings of the buxom, wasp-waisted women are popularly believed to represent either apsaras (celestial nymphs) or King Kasyapa’s concubines. Protected from the sun in the sheltered gallery, the frescoes...

Summit

The Ancient Cities

　　The spectacular terraced summit of the rock covers 1.6 hectares. This is thought to be the site chosen by King Kasyapa for his fortified capital after he had assassinated his father. Today only the low foundations of structures exist, and the remains are visually unimpressive. Still, it's hard not to...

Buddhist Temple

The South

　　This small Buddhist temple at the west end of the beach has amazing bay views and also a vigilant monk ready to chase away anyone who is hoping to feign some piety in return for a shady rest. ...

Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya

The South

　　Just 4km inland from Unawatuna, the Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya is a quiet rock temple with a 9m reclining Buddha. The mural-covered walls are painted in the typical style of the Kandyan period. Monks have been living here for at least 1500 years. You'll seldom find crowds here, which only...

Jungle Beach

The South

　　One of those 'secret' spots that everyone seems to knows about, Jungle Beach is a pretty bay just west of Unawatuna. There are a couple of slim-line sandy coves here, some snorkelling offshore (though the reef is degraded) and a cafe (the venue for excellent DJ-driven parties on Wednesdays in...

Rumassala Peace Pagoda

The South

　　On the hillside west of Unawatuna, this impressive pagoda was built by Japanese Buddhist monks of the Mahayana sect in 2005, as part of their scheme to build peace temples in conflict zones (the Sri Lankan war was raging at the time). It's a (steep) 20-minute hike from the west...

Sandagiri Wehera

Tissamaharama

　　This small dagoba is located within the Tissa Dagoba complex. ...

Wirawila Wewa

Tissamaharama

　　West of Tissa, the Hambantota–Wellawaya Rd runs over this large lake (via a causeway). It's home to resident waders and visited by migrating birds. ...

Debarawewa Clock Tower

Tissamaharama

　　A landmark clock tower that sits on a busy junction. ...

Museum

Tissamaharama

　　This small museum, next to Yatala Wehera, contains an extraordinary range of treasures including an ornate, ancient bidet, which – as well as an elaborate filtration system that limited water pollution – had murals of ugly faces carved into it in order to stop the user thinking about sex! Note...

Yatala Wehera

Tissamaharama

　　Lotus ponds surround this site, which has a wealth of elephant details in the carvings (note the footpads). It was built 2300 years ago by King Mahanaga in thanks both for the birth of his son, Yatala Tissa, and for his safe escape from an assassination attempt in Anuradhapura. It's...

Tissa Wewa

Tissamaharama

　　The centrepiece of the town and its surrounds is the lovely Tissa Wewa (Tissa Tank), a huge artificial lake. In the evening, check out the flocks of egrets that descend onto the trees around the lake to roost. The road along the southern edge has a wide Lakeside Walkway for...

Tissa Dagoba

Tissamaharama

　　This large much-restored dagoba looming between Tissa town centre and the wewa is believed to have been originally built around 200 BC by Kavantissa, a king of Ruhunu, located in present-day Tissamaharama. The white stupa has a circumference of 165m and stands 55.8m high. It is thought to have held...

Newburgh Green Tea Factory

Ella

　　The tours at this green-tea factory are pretty rushed and the guide may or may not be informative – some are more intent on flogging leaves. Newburgh is owned by Finlays, one of the world's larger tea producers. It's a half-hour walk from town. ...

Anipandi Sitivigniswara Alayar

Batticaloa

　　Of the many Hindu temples, the expanding Anipandi Sitivigniswara Alayar is visually the finest, with a magnificent gopuram (gateway tower) that’s decorated with a riotous festival of intertwined god figures. ...

Imperial Saloon

Batticaloa

　　Consider a haircut and head massage (Rs 400) at this utterly bizarre salon, a monument to kitsch. Every centimetre is covered in decorative painting, fake flowers, sequins, filigree, stained glass or tinsel garlands, and at the back of the salon, up towards the faux-sky ceiling, is an interfaith shrine, from...

Thiruchendur Murugan Alayam Temple

Batticaloa

　　Built in 1984 as a stopping point on the Pada Yatra pilgrimage to Kataragama, the temple's Murugan image is said to have opened its own eyes before the painter could do the job. The structure was slammed by the tsunami, leaving its small gopuram leaning at an alarming angle. The...

Batticaloa Lighthouse

Batticaloa

　　At the end of a sandbar, surrounded by lagoons and mangroves, this 28m-tall lighthouse dates from 1913. The sheltered coastline around here is a popular family excursion (avoid weekends) and there's a play area for kids. Swimming in the calm water, surrounded by islands and inlets, is the main draw....

Mahatma Gandhi Park

Batticaloa

　　This lovely modern park along Old Batti's waterfront is popular with strolling couples and includes features such as the Batticaloa Gate, which was a 19th-century welcoming arch to the harbour. ...

Kallady & Navalady Peninsula Beach

Batticaloa

　　This long beach follows the peninsula all the way north to the end. The swimming is usually good. With a bike, you can explore the beach, which has access at numerous places from Navalady Rd. Some areas have more shade than others. ...

Heritage Museum of Kattankudy

Batticaloa

　　This fine new museum plunges deep into the history of Muslims and Arab traders locally. Spread over three floors, it tells a compelling story about centuries of culture through models, displays, recreations, artefacts and more. The English-speaking staff are very happy to show you around. ...

Dutch Fort

Batticaloa

　　This once-mighty fort is now home to administrative offices, and though large sections of the structure are crumbling, it's still an evocative sight. It was built by the Portuguese in 1628, but the Dutch took over after just 10 years, followed by the British. Inside the courtyard are some dishevelled,...

Thuparama Gedige

Polonnaruwa

　　At the southern end of the Quadrangle, the Thuparama Gedige is the smallest gedige (hollow Buddhist temple with thick walls) in Polonnaruwa, but is also one of the best: it's the only one with its roof intact, supported by corbel arch-style supports. The inner chamber is delightfully cool and contains...

Archaeological Museum

Polonnaruwa

　　This excellent museum has rooms dedicated to the citadel, the outer city, the monastery area (check out the model of the monks' hospital and medical instruments) and Hindu monuments. The latter room contains a wonderful selection of bronzes, including some outstanding Shiva statues. One depicts Shiva, ringed by an aureole...

Tivanka Image House

Polonnaruwa

　　Polonnaruwa's northern road ends at Tivanka Image House. Tivanka means ‘thrice bent’, and refers to the fact that the Buddha image within is in a three-curve position normally reserved for female statues. The building is notable for its fine frescoes depicting Buddha in his past lives – the only Polonnaruwa...

Polonnaruwa Ruins

Polonnaruwa

　　For three centuries Polonnaruwa was a royal capital of both the Chola and Sinhalese kingdoms. Today's archaeological park is a delight to explore, with hundreds of ancient structures – tombs and temples, statues and stupas – in a sprawling forested core. Although nearly 1000 years old, it’s much younger than...

Rankot Vihara

Polonnaruwa

　　The 54m Rankot Vihara dagoba, the largest in Polonnaruwa and the fourth largest on the island, has been ascribed to the reign of King Nissanka Malla. Like the other major dagobas in Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the dome consists of earth fill covered by a brick mantle and plaster. The construction...