Packed with iconic museums and monuments, together with low-key treasures cherished by locals, Paris is a city that emanates "la belle vie" (the good life).
Away from the highlights – the Louvre, Notre Dame and Eiffel Tower – Parisian life ticks along with a coffee on a terrace, a bike ride along the Seine, and wine-fueled lunches with friends in noisy bistros. Blending the blockbuster experiences with these local delights is the key to experiencing the best of Paris.
Here are the top things to do according to a local.
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Detour: For smouldering, eyeball-to-eyeball views of the Dame de Fer (Iron Lady) herself, illuminated at night, enjoy a date night beneath the stars at the summer rooftop bar atop La Shangri-La Paris. Can't be in there? See it from the Seine, with Eiffel Tower views from fine-dining bateau Ducasse sur Seine.
The exquisite "marble" replica of a late-Renaissance Giambologna sculpture in the central hall (actually a gargantuan, slow-burning wax candle by Swiss artist Urs Fischer), the pesky "pigeons" perched on the balustrade above, the "cushions" strewn on the occasional chair throughout are not what they seem. This mischievous new gallery has been designed to shock and surprise.
When hunger strikes, swing through the inconspicuous green metal gate on rue de Bretagne, 3e, in nearby Le Marais to uncover Marché des Enfants Rouges. This is the city’s oldest covered market, dating from 1615, with a maze of food stalls cooking up Moroccan couscous, Japanese bento, Thai curries and other world cuisines. Order a stuffed- and sizzled-to-order toasted sandwich or galette (savoury crêpe) from gregarious Alain at Chez Alain Miam Miam, then grab a pew to lunch with locals around communal tables.
To peek into the makings of a Parisian home, ride metro line 13 north to Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen. A village in itself, this gargantuan nine-hectare flea market – Europe’s largest – is where thrifty Parisians gravitate at weekends to hunt down chintzy Louis XVI lamps, rare and wondrous vinyl, avant-garde fittings and furniture, antiques and other second-hand treasures for their city-sleek apartments.
Thanks to a four-year redesign costing more than €55 million, visiting the Musée Carnavalet is a sharp, immersive, chronological waltz through the glittering story of Paris, from prehistory to the terrorism-troubled 21st century. Some 3800 of 625,000 historical pieces – paintings, sculptures, furniture, signs, posters, models, coins, toys, musical instruments, erotica – adorn rooms perfectly styled to reflect each era. The most spectacular – the lavish painted ceilings, gilt and stucco of the Salons La Rivière (1652–56), Hôtel Wendel’s Art Deco ballroom, Fouquet’s Art Nouveau jewelry shop – are the Real McCoy, uprooted from their original location to the museum for safekeeping.
Planning tip: Admission to the permanent collection is free and doesn't need to be booked in advance. End in the museum cafe, with tables enchantingly scattered in the manicured courtyard garden.
More Monet masterpieces rub shoulders with paintings by Cézanne, Degas, Renoir and Van Gogh in the Musée d’Orsay, displaying world-class art from 1848 to 1914 in a resplendent 1900-built train station by the Seine. But the real gold lies off the trodden tourist trail, at the unsung Musée Marmottan Monet. Quietly at home in an intimate, Empire-style hôtel particulier in the residential 16e arrondissement, this is where the world’s largest collection of canvases by Monet can be found.
Hunts are themed, a huge hit with families, and lead you into quieter rooms well beyond the over-crowded likes of Da Vinci’s celebrity Mona Lisa or Michelangelo’s Dying Slave. Count between two and three hours to track down, and snap a photo as evidence, up to 30 artworks – the "pieces of treasure".
A 10-minute walk away on trendy Rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, fashionistas hobnob over cocktails, barbecued meats and weekend brunch at Au Top, a hidden rooftop with an insane 360-degree panorama. Le Perchoir Marais is the other unmissable rooftop in the neighborhood.
Local tip: Other Parisian-packed venues to swoon over the city’s romantic skyline: the viewing terrace of department store Galeries Lafayette, Perruche above Le Printemps, cocktail and DJ hub Le Perchoir in the 11e, and farm-to-fork Le Perchoir, at home on Europe’s largest urban farm in the 15e on – guess what – a rooftop.
When 19th-century town planner Georges Eugène Haussmann bulldozed the medieval city’s cobweb of dank, narrow alleys in the 1850s to create an elegant, light-filled capital of broad tree-shaded boulevards and squares, he clearly had Parisian flânerie (strolling at leisure) in mind. Left-bank St-Germain des Prés, right-bank Le Marais and Jardin du Luxembourg are classic areas for slow, indulgent walks.
For monumental grandeur around every corner, kick off on the viewing platform of Arc de Triomphe, stroll shop-lined Champs-Elysées to obelisk-pierced Place de la Concorde, and cut through Jardin des Tuileries to arch-pierced Place du Carrousel. Admire the Louvre, with its striking glass pyramid, then duck beneath the arches to Place Colette with its flashy metro-station entrance threaded with 800 Murano glass beads.
Continue into Jardin du Palais Royal to frolic around Daniel Buren’s signature black-and-white striped columns, browse its upmarket boutique-clad arcades, chill over freshly roasted coffee at hidden Café Kitsuné, and flop on a park bench to watch Paris go by in gorgeous slow motion.
Planning tip: Join up with Explore Paris on a wildly creative themed walking tour of Paris such as operatic strolls with a singer in Montmartre, Chinese Belleville, or gourmet walks in Goutte d’Or.
Local tip: Reserve a table at clandestine cocktail bar Le Très Particulier, with walled summer garden, in a 19th-century mansion on Ave Junot. Mooch a couple of doors downhill to Villa Leandré at No 23, one of the picturesque cul-de-sacs in Paris with flowery cottage gardens fronting 1920s, terraced brick houses. Another 15 minutes brings you to La Cité Pilleux (45 rue Ganneron, 18e), an equally bucolic dead-end lane with old industrial workshops re-spun as pretty little dwellings.
To scout out the iconic graves of 1960s rock star Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf et al, scan the QR code inside the cemetery’s Blvd de Ménilmontant entrance to access a map; or hook up with entertaining cemetery historian Thierry Le Roi. His two-hour guided tours are legendary in their own right.
Local tip: Visit on a sunny day after the rain to experience this unexpected green oasis at its most lush.
Admire astonishing vistas stretching from the Louvre, Place de la Concorde and the Champs-Elysées (all east), to the Arc de Triomphe’s modern counterpoint, 1980s-built Grande Arche de la Défense (west). Peer down to watch cars twirling around the city’s busiest roundabout encircling the arch and spinning off along one of eight leafy Haussmannian avenues.
Sunset drinks are a rite of passage at floating bar and guinguette (dance hall), Rosa Bonheur sur Seine – as is a dose of contemporary street art a short walk west along the quay to bohemian barge-gallery Fluctuart. To stay on the Seine 24/7, check into floating hotel, Off Paris Seine.
Local tip: Hopes are high that parts of the river will be clean enough to swim in by 2025. Until then, cool off on hot summer days at floating outdoor pool Piscine Joséphine Baker.
Local tip: Forgotten French liqueurs, zany homemade infusions and inventive syrups are at their finest at Le Mary Céleste, one of Paris’ first bars to pair cocktails with modern French tapas dishes. For summer cocktails, follow a clued-in crowd to Le Pavillon Puebla, a guinguette-styled party space in a rambling 19th-century mansion in beautiful offbeat city park Parc des Buttes-Chaumont.
The untouristed 10th arrondissement is becoming increasingly foodie with wildly successful, bistronomie addresses such as Les Résistants and L’Avant Poste.
Detour: After 15 years of restoration, to the tune of €750 million, historic department store La Samaritaine is breathtaking in size and beauty. Drooling over the Seine-side building’s original art nouveau and art deco features, including the glass-topped central hall – all impeccably restored by Pritzker Prize–winning Japanese firm Sanaa – is completely fine.
Summer raises the curtain on romance with movies beneath the stars – deckchairs are scattered on the grass in Parc de la Villette during free film screenings mid-July to mid-August. MK2’s ground-breaking cinema hotel, Hôtel Paradiso in the 12e has designer rooms sporting private cinema screens and a lush green rooftop garden hosting screenings after-dark.
Local tip: Films screened on a 24m-long screen in the Louvre’s magnificent 16th-century courtyard during July’s four-day Cinéma Paradiso Louvre open-air film fest are always a rip-roaring success.