Toyko is the megacity that other world capitals look up to. Nowhere else has quite the same mix of timeless history and space-age tech, of strict tradition and up-to-the-second fashions, of bewildering crowds and moments of utter serenity. It's the past and future wrapped up together into one thrilling package – and understandably, it's one of the top tourist destinations on the planet.
Deciding what to do in a city as vast and complex as Tokyo can take some consideration. You can spend your days shopping for next-century electronics in futuristic malls or finding inner peace in timeless temples and serene zen gardens, and your evenings sipping sake in back-alley bars or clubbing with the cosplay set dressed up as a manga superhero.
A lot depends on how much time you have and how comfortable you are diving into Tokyo's complex but efficient public transport system. But if you want to maximize the experience on your first trip to Tokyo, here are 14 of our favorite things to do.
For a sample of traditional Tokyo, watch kabuki (theatrical dance) at the Kabuki-za theater in Ginza, eat a traditional multi-course kaiseki meal to a backdrop of performing geisha in Asakusa, or admire one of the 7,000-plus Japanese treasures on show at the Edo-Tokyo Museum. The traditional arts are a great introduction to how Tokyo used to be before the city fell in love with everything modern.
If you’re on the hunt for old-school video game treasures, peruse the bountiful shelves of Retro Game Camp and Super Potato Retro-kan. However, you don't need to love manga or anime to enjoy this quirky neighborhood. With its neon-bright electronics stores, retro arcades, cosplay cafes – and now the chance to drive go-karts through the streets – it's equal parts sensory overload, cultural immersion and just plain fun.
The cramped alleyways are permeated by the saline smells of the Pacific. A rainbow menagerie of sea creatures decorates the stalls from top to bottom daily, and octogenarian fishmongers hail passersby with promises of culinary delights. The fist-sized seared scallops, tamagoyaki (rolled omelet) and uni (sea urchin) sushi at Tsukiji are must-eats.
Over at Toyosu, the largest seafood market in the world conducts its business inside huge ventilated hangars in Koto Ward. Built as a state-of-the-art upgrade to Tsukiji, it lacks the rustic charm of its predecessor, functioning more as an efficient trading floor for the seafood that keeps Tokyo's restaurants in business. However, it’s now home to Tokyo’s legendary morning tuna auctions – a great addition to any itinerary for early risers.
The backstreets of Harajuku are Tokyo's street-fashion laboratory; this is where you'll find the trendsetters, the peacocks and the style photographers who chronicle it all – and the vintage clothing stores staffed by resident bohemians that keep everything moving. Keeping in line with the hipster theme, hit up Commune 2nd for lunch, a large outdoor canopy surrounded by food trucks serving favorite Japanese street bites such as karaage (battered chicken thighs) and tebasaki (fried wings), alongside vegan cuisine and craft beer stalls.
Sumo has six live annual events, three of which take place in Tokyo’s Ryōgoku Kokugikan in January, May and September. Tickets often sell out well in advance, so keep your eye on the official website for ticket release dates. If you’re lucky enough to nab one, mentally prepare yourself for a liquid lunch of rice wine, impassioned crowd support and highly audible slaps of belly on belly.
Washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) was designated an intangible element of cultural heritage by UNESCO in 2013, and Tokyo is its standard-bearer. More than 200 Michelin stars have been awarded to restaurants across the capital, ranging from simple ramen shops, where a bowl of soup costs less than an hourly wage, to 11-course haute cuisine menus that will burn a fairly sizable hole in your retirement fund.
For raw fish, beg your hotel concierge for a seat at the elegantly simplistic Sushi Saito (but don't be surprised if you get passed over for a local VIP). Ramen lovers should slurp stone-milled noodles topped with truffle oil at Tsuta in Sugamo, while modern fine dining is typified by Florilège, a double Michelin-starred French-Japanese fusion where tasting menus are prepped in the culinary theater of an open kitchen.
Alternatively, check out Kichijoji’s Harmonica Alley, a network of corridors filled with the crackle of dripping meat skewers on open grills, cheap-as-chips standing bars pouring draft glasses of Asahi, and hole-in-the-wall snack joints. Expect to find a karaoke parlor or two nearby where you can finish the evening at full volume.
Designed by Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu, lord of the Kawagoe estate, around the turn of the 17th century, the Rikugi-en garden in Bunkyo Ward is a bucolic splotch of green amid the turgid bustle of urban Tokyo. Mossy footpaths, waka poetry-inspired spiritual masonry, mirror-like ponds and cobblestone bridges are joined by shifting autumn foliage and a resplendent weeping cherry tree in spring. Come and step back through a few centuries.
The main plaza holds a five-story pagoda, renovated in 2017, and a giant cauldron of incense kept constantly smoking by the crowds of visitors who throng the compound daily, particularly at weekends. Altogether, Sensō-ji is a heady mix of the secular and sacred and one of Tokyo's most iconic sights.
Grassy Yoyogi-kōen, one of the city's largest parks, is where you'll find some of the most spirited and elaborate bacchanals – complete with barbecues, sake-sipping and DJ turntables. Many revelers stay long after dark for the spectacle of yozakura (illuminated blossoms at night).
While you won't see staff cosplaying any characters, many famous Ghibli characters have been cleverly worked into the fabric of the museum. Walking around really does feel a bit like falling into the fantasy worlds created by Miyazaki Hayao.
Meiji-jingū is a place of worship and a memorial to Emperor Meiji, and it’s also a place for traditional festivals and rituals, where weddings are held and milestones are celebrated – something you might catch if you time your visit right.