Panama City’s old town goes by many monikers: Casco Viejo, Casco Antiguo and the lesser-used San Felipe, to name just three. It’s also known as the hippest region in the city, where most fall in love with Panama’s capital.
This Unesco-listed district is a symphony of restored rainbow-hued buildings, romantic wrought-iron balconies, centuries-old churches, sky-caressing rooftops and narrow cobblestone streets, strung out along four historic avenues.
Though humble in size, Casco Viejo is the setting for many of Panama City’s top restaurants and trendiest bars, and historical buildings with scintillating stories to tell. Here are 10 of the best things to do in this enticing enclave.
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Today, however, this feat of engineering is the country’s star attraction, and it's one of the top sights in Panama City. You can learn more about it without leaving Casco Viejo at the Interoceanic Canal Museum (also known as the Panama Canal Museum) located in one of the neighborhood’s most handsome historic buildings, dating back to 1874.
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For a meal or refreshing drink, pop into Hotel la Compañia, originally built as a Jesuit convent in 1688, or the American Trade Hotel, which was once the tallest building in Panama City, despite topping out at just three stories.
Along with sharp contrasts between elegance and decay, strolling in Casco is delightful due to the mural-lacquered walls created by Rolando “Rolo” de Sedas, a Panamanian artist known for transforming urban spaces with colorful patriotic iconography.
Casco is also safe to walk around and despite the area being a tourist hub, you won't find hawkers on every corner, so you're free to enjoy the ruins, street art and cool cafes in peace.
But you’ll have to save your dollars to enjoy it – batches of Geisha coffee have sold for as much as US$2,568 per pound. In Casco, you can sip the champagne of coffees at Café Unido or Tiempos located within American Trade Hotel at Plaza Herrera.
Before ordering your drink, ask to sample the silver and spiced house rums made with Raspadura pure cane sugar. The menu boasts a great collection of cocktails, but nothing beats the Mandinga mojitos.
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Worn by everyone from gold rush pioneers to US presidents, not to mention spies the world over, the Panama hat has become synonymous with this Central American nation. Actually Ecuadorian in origin, these straw hats are sold everywhere in Panama City, with prices starting from US$15 at street stalls to US$800 in shops.
As a guide for purchasers, the tighter the weave, the pricier the hat. At Victor’s Hats, rows of shelves display a variety of styles and colors. If in doubt, stick to the classic style in natural tones.
The best outlook is from Paseo Esteban Huertas, a pretty promenade built atop the old city’s outer wall. Under a canopy of bougainvillea, this scenic path runs from Plaza de Francia to the former Club Unión member’s club, which stood in for a Bolivian villa in the Quantum of Solace Bond movie. Along the waterfront, Kuna women sell the embroidered molas (handmade textile panels) for which the country is famous.
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It’s a fun music-filled spot for lunch where the catch of the day can be bought and cooked to order at the restaurant upstairs. Don’t miss the citrus-sharp ceviche, served heaped into Styrofoam cups. This popular order is best paired with an ice-cold beer.
Lazotea, which sits atop the stylish, boutique Hotel Casa Panama, offers sparkling skyline views and a chance to dip in the pool between beverages. It was the first rooftop in the old town to have its own pool.
Night owls should make a beeline for the rooftop at Selina which also has a pool and a healthy roster of events and live music nights. As Casco's first rooftop bar, Tantalo is eternally popular, while Casa Casco is where well-dressed Panameños go for 360° views of the city and the bay.
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The baroque altar was later moved from Panamá Viejo to Iglesia de San José in Casco Viejo where it stands today. It’s the only relic to have been salvaged from that devastating attack and it's the highlight of this historic church.
To feast on several of Panama’s national dishes under one roof, Diablicos is your best dining option in Casco. There you can enjoy hearty sancocho, a broth of chicken, corn on the cob, starchy vegetables and cilantro, or ropa vieja, a shredded meat dish whose name translates to “old clothes.”
On certain evenings, the restaurant puts on a showstopping show featuring singing, dancing, drumming and diablico sucios (dirty devils) – prominent characters in Panamanian folklore.