Some cities belong to their locals; others, like Chiang Mai in Thailand, are democracies of wanderers. While Bangkok, and Thailand at-large, may be renowned for many attractions, one thing it's come to be known for in recent years is its tourists—tourists of all kinds like backpackers, rich tourists, digital nomads, honeymooners...the list is endless.
Chiang Mai has been all the rage recently, diverting attention from the more mainstream tracks that of Ko Samui. Founded in 1296 by King Mengrai, Chiang Mai was once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, a powerful realm that spanned across present-day northern Thailand, parts of Myanmar, Laos and China. Today, Chiang Mai retains its rich historical roots while evolving into a vibrant cultural and culinary hub, attracting travellers from all corners of the world. With its astonishing temples, thriving street markets, lush landscapes and world-class cuisine, it is poised to become a cosmopolitan hub. In this burgeoning prefecture of Thailand, I spent a memorable few days.
The journey began with a smooth arrival in Chiang Mai, a city that seems always on-the-go and yet at rest. My first stop was Klay Café, a cosy establishment in the trendy Nimman One district. The café’s homely atmosphere and diverse breakfast options—ranging from classic Thai dishes to Western favourites—set the tone for a delightful morning.
After a satisfying meal, I checked into Villa 1968, an elegant Airbnb located in one of the city's most dynamic neighbourhoods. The area was buzzing with an eclectic mix of cocktail trucks, beer cafés, street food vendors, boutique shops, souvenir stores, and marijuana outlets (yes, the old Mary Jane is legal in Thailand!). I decided to soak it all in, leaving my travel plans for the next day.
On day two, lunch at The House by Ginger, a Michelin-starred restaurant, was an unforgettable experience. The restaurant's quirky decor was matched with an inventive take on Thai cuisine, blending traditional flavours with contemporary techniques. The interior reminded me of an old, decorated palace with creaky wooden shelves for books, rusted bulbous globes, cryptic artworks, dusty books, and wooden flooring. It was intimate, yet it retained a ceremonious exaltation.
Post-lunch, a tea workshop at Monsoon Teahouse provided an insightful look into Thailand’s rich tea-chewing and drinking history. Nestled along the riverfront, the teahouse specialises in locally-grown and ethically sourced teas, offering an aromatic journey through the country’s diverse tea culture. They also encourage research into tea and the insects that live in tea plantations on their property, making newer innovations each day in their taste and technique. Having learned all there is to the drink, I ventured ahead for more explorations.
By now, it was afternoon. My midday nap was sneaking up on me. But the slot was reserved for exploring the historic Tha Phae Gate instead. I didn't complain.
As one of the last remaining entrances to Chiang Mai’s ancient walled city, the gate is a symbol of the city’s storied past. Nearby, the medieval moat, repurposed as a picturesque canal, added to the old-world charm. Evening brought an opportunity to dine at Kiti Panit, a 136-year-old teak mansion restored to a fine-dining restaurant. Its carefully curated menu pays homage to classic Thai dishes, presented with elegance and sophistication. With so much to explore, I spent the rest of my day immersing in the tales of the city's history before finally slipping into slumber at night.
The next day began before dawn with an Airbnb Experience to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, guided by an ex-monk. Perched atop Doi Suthep mountain, this revered temple is one of northern Thailand’s most significant spiritual sites. The journey to the top involved a winding drive through dense forest, followed by an ascent going through a debilitating flight of stairs, culminating in breathtaking views of the city bathed in golden sunrise hues. The guide, drawing from his monastic experience, shared deep insights into Buddhist traditions and the significance of the temple. The best part, though, was when we offered alms to monks, an age-old practice. The ritual provided a window into Thailand’s enduring spiritual customs, and I was truly humbled.
On the descent, a visit to the lesser-known Wat Pha Lat proved to be a highlight. This serene jungle temple, often overlooked by tourists, offered a tranquil escape surrounded by lush greenery. Outside, my fellow travellers enjoyed khao man gai (chicken and rice), a simple yet flavourful Thai breakfast. Inspired by their meal, the next stop was Kopy Café Nimman, a charming spot known for its artisanal coffee and laid-back ambience.
After a brief rest at the Airbnb, lunch at Kao Soy Nimman introduced the city’s signature dish, khao soi—a rich and creamy egg noodle served in creamy red curry broth with melt-in-the-mouth beef shanks and crispy egg noodles as toppings. The dish’s robust flavours and crispy noodle topping evoked nostalgia, reminiscent of beef nihari back home in Gaya, Bihar. Post-lunch explorations took us through Chiang Mai’s stylish boutiques, each offering a unique blend of contemporary fashion and traditional craftsmanship.
The afternoon was dedicated to relaxation at Fah Lanna Spa, a sanctuary known for its authentic Lanna-style therapies. Traditional Thai massages, herbal compress treatments, and aromatherapy sessions rejuvenated both body and mind. The experience was followed by dinner at Baan Landai Fine Thai Cuisine, a restaurant renowned for its artistic presentation and use of locally sourced ingredients. Afterward, embracing local customs, a quick stop at a 7-Eleven for drinks added a touch of casual revelry to the night. Unlike India, Chiang Mai permits responsible drinking on the streets, allowing visitors to soak in the lively evening atmosphere at their own pace.
On the final day, the itinerary featured a personalised Airbnb Experience: the Chiang Mai Street Art Tour & Workshop. Led by a passionate guide, Miss K. North, the tour unveiled the city’s vibrant street art scene, with murals depicting everything from historical legends to contemporary social motifs and themes. Elephants are a recurring motif in Thailand's art. The usage, though, may differ. The gentle giants can be depicted in spiritual artworks to even social and rebellious creatures. The experience extended beyond observation, allowing us to create our own wall art and design custom tote bags—a creative keepsake from the journey.
Later, lunch at Meena Rice Based Cuisine was a delightful discovery. Set against a scenic backdrop of rice fields, the restaurant showcased the versatility of rice in Thai cuisine, offering dishes that highlighted different grain varieties and preparation methods. The afternoon continued at Baan Kang Wat, a creative community space brimming with local artisan stalls, live music, and street food vendors. The market’s lively atmosphere, combined with its focus on handmade crafts, made it an ideal place to shop for unique souvenirs.
The grand finale of the trip was dinner at Redbox, a Michelin-starred restaurant housed in a historic Lanna residence. The menu, featuring a fusion of Thai, Malaysian and Bruneian influences, presented an innovative take on regional flavours, making for an extraordinary dining experience.
Chiang Mai is a city that lingers in memory long after departure. From its ancient temples and dynamic street food culture to its artistic enclaves and serene wellness retreats, the city offers an immersive experience that bridges the past and present. It is a destination where tradition thrives alongside innovation, inviting travelers to explore its many layers with curiosity and wonder.
Thai Airways, Vietjet, Air Asia, and IndiGo offer connecting flights from various destinations in India (such as Bengaluru, New Delhi, Kochi, and Goa).