By the middle of the last decade, I had been studying Indian butterflies for over 20 years, however, I had never observed butterflies at high altitudes in the trans-Himalayan habitat. So, in 2015, I decided to visit Ladakh to search for butterflies.
A review of publications on butterflies of Ladakh did not yield much information. Vadim V. Tshikolovets, an independent Czech researcher, had published "The Butterflies of Ladakh" in 2005, covering 101 butterfly species. It was based on surveys conducted between 1998 and 2004. Another paper by a researcher from the Zoological Survey Of India based on surveys between July and September 2009 revealed only 20 species.
While some butterfly species found in Ladakh belong to the Oriental region, most species belong to the Palearctic region and are not recorded in the other parts of India. I was intrigued by the paucity of information on butterflies in this region.
Having never visited Ladakh previously, I called upon friends and acquaintances who had been visiting this marvellous landscape for years to plan my visit.
"Where and when should I visit?" was my key question. To my astonishment, I got responses ranging from "There are hardly any butterflies in Ladakh" to "Butterflies in Ladakh? Huh? We haven't seen any!" After conversing with a few frequent visitors and tour companies in Ladakh, I realised I would have to plough my furrow.
My butterfly-watching visits to Ladakh were both frustrating and fascinating. Aside from agricultural fields in Leh and other areas, where many common species can be seen, butterflies were rare in most of Ladakh's landscapes. There were days when we'd drive and walk, only to spot a handful of species. But those few would always be special—rare and wonderful species I had never seen before.
Through trial and error, we determined that the best places to observe butterflies were near trickling streams, alpine meadows and agricultural fields. However, barren rocky outcrops with a few flowering plants would suddenly throw up a species or two that would have us scrambling to spot, photograph and identify the butterfly.
On our very first drive on the outskirts of Leh, I suddenly spotted a brown butterfly flit across the road. A yell brought the vehicle to a screeching halt, and I leapt out to search for the elusive winged insect. "Why on earth would a butterfly be found here?" I thought to myself. A few minutes of searching revealed a butterfly called the Tawny Rockbrown. I found it feeding on the nectar of tiny flowers, which we had missed entirely in the drab brown, dry landscape. Meadow Browns, Rockbrowns, Walls, Arguses, and Satyrs—commonly known as "Browns"—are abundant in Ladakh, with most species found only in trans-Himalayan landscapes.
For nature enthusiasts and butterfly watchers, Ladakh is a paradise for Palearctic butterfly species
Each habitat we explored had its unique mix of butterfly species. By trickling streams and moist areas, we found Small and Dusky Green Underwings, along with numerous Meadowblues, all part of the Blues family. In alpine meadows, countless white and yellow butterflies from the Yellows and Whites family fluttered about. More than once, I'd spot a white or yellow butterfly drifting across the meadow, and chase after it, only to find myself out of breath in Ladakh's rarefied air while the butterfly gracefully flew away. Once, I chased a Butler's Dwarf butterfly for 15 minutes, managing only a few photos before it disappeared. Another time, I spotted dozens of Clouded Yellow butterflies in an alpine meadow. I spent half an hour chasing them, only for them to flit away each time. Exhausted, I finally sat down, and to my surprise, they came closer, allowing me to capture beautiful images of the Fiery Clouded Yellow. We also encountered swarms of Snow Apollos on the southern-facing slopes of passes like Khardung La, Wari La Pass, and Tanglang Pass.
Over the course of multiple visits to Ladakh for butterfly observation, I’ve had the remarkable opportunity to photograph more than 40 "lifers"—species I encountered for the very first time. These include some truly rare and elusive butterflies, such as the Ladakh Copper, Dusky Meadow Blue, Indian White-line Hairstreak, Kashmir White, Small Cabbage White, and the Ladakh Mountain Satyr—species that had never been documented or photographed in India before. These discoveries have added valuable new knowledge to the field and led to the publication of two research papers in the "Journal of Threatened Taxa."
In addition to this, I partnered with the Snow Leopard Conservancy to create a small booklet showcasing 50 butterfly species found in Ladakh, with the goal of raising awareness and promoting butterfly watching as a unique and sustainable activity. This initiative aims to inspire both locals and tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the region, while fostering a greater appreciation for Ladakh's fragile ecosystems.
For nature enthusiasts, Ladakh is a paradise for Palearctic butterfly species. Its stunning landscapes and vibrant communities are home to numerous "lifers" waiting to be discovered.