It was almost dinnertime when we returned to the Al Badayer Retreat, our lovely resort on the fringes of the Al Badayer desert in Sharjah after a day of hectic touring.

　　It was our third day in the Emirate, and we had spent it immersed in the stark beauty of the ochre dunes at Mleiha in Sharjah's archaeologically rich Central region.

　　We had driven to the otherworldly Buhais Geological Park, a barren, fossil-rich stretch in the shadow of the limestone Jebel Buhais range, where a series of interconnected space-age pods taught us through interactive displays about the geological origins of this prehistoric region.

　　We even tried some “dune bashing,” the thrilling high-speed desert adventure made tame by our pleas to the driver to keep it gentle. Our backs ached, we said, and we weren’t quite sure how the sudden dips and turns would affect our necks, we argued. Our driver, a swashbuckling fellow Indian from Kerala, acquiesced reluctantly before throwing all caution to the winds at the final dune with a rakish, “darr ke aage jeet hai!” ("There's victory beyond fear!")

　　Noor (name changed), the cheerful University student and part-time guide who had accompanied us, was very amused at her shaken and stirred but secretly thrilled tour party.

　　She had kept up the conversation throughout the day, sharing nuggets of information about the attractions we visited and glimpses of her life in the Emirate.

　　"I don't want to live anywhere but Sharjah," she said when I asked her if she had considered moving abroad for higher studies. "I visited London with my family recently but found it a bit scary. Life is comfortable here, so why would I want to move? Plus, my mom does everything for me here; I don't think I would be able to live alone," she said.

　　Later, as we sat together under a dark sky brilliant with stars for a meal of barbecued meats, fresh salad, and a variety of bread and dips, Noor told us more about her siblings, the youngest still in primary school, her mother who had just retired to garden and “chill,” and all the hopes and dreams that she harboured in her millennial heart.

　　At night, after she had deposited us at the hotel, Noor hopped into her SUV with a swish of her abaya. None of the earlier under-confidence was apparent as she prepared to drive back to Sharjah City, a good 66 km through the desert on the Dubai-Hatta road.

　　"Are you sure it is safe to drive alone at this time of the night?" I asked.

　　"Of course! Sharjah is absolutely safe. I drive around on my own all the time," she said. And with that, she was gone.

　　Heart of Sharjah

　　Modernity and tradition coexist quite happily in Sharjah, especially in its smart, capable women who drive cars, hold important government positions, have successful careers and baulk at the casual generalisations that are often thrown their way by those unfamiliar with the Emirati way of life.

　　We met Fatima Al Shuweihi, a culture crusader, animal activist and marathoner at the Heart of Sharjah, one of the biggest and most important redevelopment projects in the UAE.

　　The project, which is now near completion, has revitalised the original city centre into a chic, artsy neighbourhood with three souks, six museums, cafés, restored homes like the Bait Al Naboodah and the Chedi Al Bait hotel—a collection of seven preserved heritage manors turned into luxury accommodation.

　　Dressed gracefully and modestly in a black abaya, Fatima was waiting for us at the courtyard of Souk Al Arsah, an old trading hub for merchants from the Gulf and countries like Iran and India. Interestingly, the Souk Al Arsah is not just the oldest souk in Sharjah but also the oldest souk in the whole of the UAE. Now covered and airconditioned, it is a great place to shop for Middle Eastern memorabilia like pearl chests, replicas of dhows (Arab sailing boats with a long, thin hull), copper coffee pots, jewellery, clothing, perfumes, fossils, and incense.

　　The other attraction at the Souk besides souvenirs is the cardamom-flavoured local delicacy called Omani halwa. Fatima took us to the Omani Sweets Factory, where we were given a tiny sample of the gelatinous sweet topped with crumbled cashew nuts. The intense sweetness was a shock, and a teaspoon was all I could manage.

　　“When someone comes bearing Omani halwa, we know that there’s been an engagement in the family. It’s a tradition in Sharjah to distribute the halwa once the nuptials have been fixed,” said Fatima. “We still have arranged marriages, but unlike the olden days when the groom’s mother would select the bride and the couple would see each other only at the wedding, these days it’s okay for the couple to meet each other in the presence of relatives and decide whether they would like to get married or not.”

　　“If I have to marry, I want to be chosen by the man, not his mother,” said Fatima who is single and “very happy” with her cats and dogs. “I have no space in my life for a man who is not as devoted to animals as I am.

　　I am an animal rescuer, and right now, I have three cats in my car that have to be taken to the vet for a follow-up. I can’t imagine being with a man who can’t deal with this. Thankfully, my parents don’t pressurise me to get married. I run marathons, I travel the world, I have a great following on social media, and I have a career I am passionate about…so, yes, I am happy!”

　　The Light Fantastic

　　One of the best times of the year to visit Sharjah is February. The temperatures are still cool enough to warrant a light jacket, and the Emirate is lit up with the colours of the Sharjah Light Festival (SLF). An annual affair, SLF is held at different sites across the emirate for 14 days. We were lucky to have visited at least five of these sites on our trip, four in Sharjah City and one at the stunning Al Rafisah Dam in Khor Fakkan, close to the Omani border in eastern Sharjah. Here, as dusk settles over the azure waters of the reservoir, the origin story of Sharjah is projected on the Hajar mountains—the rocky screen providing the perfect backdrop to depict the geological processes that led to the birth of this region.

　　For drama, however, nothing beats the Sharjah Mosque, which comes alive in a kaleidoscopic display of light, colour, and music, highlighting the grandeur of Islamic and Emirati heritage. From an abstract design in shades of blue to an intricate oriental pattern washed across the domes and minarets to a bold splash of violets and purples, it was as if a frenzied wallpaper salesman was showing off his wares on a giant canvas. A close second in terms of spectacle was the show on the intersections between science, creativity, and sustainability at the Sharjah Research Technology and Innovation Park.

　　For the people watcher that I am, however, one of the most interesting SLF sites in Sharjah City was The Light Village— a “mela” of sorts right next to the University City Hall. With Instagram-able light installations and around 50 food trucks, this was where all the college students of Sharjah seemed to have converged. Our guide for the day was a student at the University of Sharjah, and he must have been mortified to be seen escorting a group of fuddy-duddies in this chic, cool crowd! The girls were all perfectly made up and super good-looking in their stylish, flowy abayas, accessorised with designer handbags and shoes, while the sartorial choice for the Emirati boys was their kandooras sans head gear and fancy designer sneakers.

　　While we stood in line at the ‘it’ burger stall in a sea of millennials, I was struck by the general air of respectfulness all around. There was obviously none of the drunken chaos that one often sees in similar gatherings at other places. And remarkably, the girls clearly owned the space. It was late at night, but there they were, laughing, giggling, and walking around like queens while the boys huddled in groups at a respectful distance, awed by the spectacle but clearly mindful of maintaining boundaries. Sharjah has clearly got the memo.

　　Places to See in Sharjah

　　Al Noor Island

　　This manmade island in Sharjah City is a great family getaway. Step inside the butterfly park and find a friendly winged beauty settling on your arm. The island has some award-winning architectural structures that offer great photo ops.

　　The Rain Room

　　Missing your Mumbai downpours? Head to The Rain Room, a unique art installation that lets you walk through a deluge without getting wet. Special trigger sensors ensure that the water droplets are deflected off of you. Just remember to walk slowly; rushing about will confuse the sensors and get you drenched!

　　Sharjah Safari

　　Experience all the wonders of an African safari at Sharjah Safari, located within the Al Bardi Reserve in Al Dhaid. Spread over eight sq km, Sharjah Safari has more than 120 endemic African species. The park is divided into five regions and has up to 50,000 animals.

　　Khor Fakkan

　　Khor Fakkan is one of Sharjah's most beautiful regions, with its white sand beaches and mountains. The Al Suhub Rest House, perched 600 m above sea level, offers great vistas of the Gulf of Oman. Don't miss a doughnut boat ride on the still waters of the Al Rafisah Dam.

　　Khor Kalba Mangroves

　　Situated on the east coast of Sharjah on the Omani border, Kalba is a biodiverse region home to the Khor Kalba mangroves, one of the oldest mangrove forests in the UAE. The Khor Kalba Mangrove Centre offers information about its unique biodiversity.