"Goa Beyond Beaches" has been a buzzword for quite some time, and rightly so. The hinterlands have become a priority in overhauling the state's tourism landscape and making the beaches less crowded. Conventionally associated with a free-spirited nightlife, the sun and sea state now draws tourists for birding. Interestingly, not many people know that Goa, with nearly 495 bird species, is a haven full of birds, many of which are found in Cotigao, one of the oldest wildlife sanctuaries in the state.

　　The 86 sq kms vast sanctuary is home to wide-ranging birds, cherished through the bird festival in the wild. Held from January 17-19, 2025, the 8th edition took me into a captivating show of fluttering wings, hidden calls and a quiet retreat amidst the towering canopies of Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Canacona, near the Goa-Karnataka border. As a first-time birder, I wasn’t expecting to spot the feathered wonders, albeit I gave it a shot. The first rule of birding is to start early and dress right, preferably in shades of grey, brown or green to blend into the forest. Our instructor told us to quietly observe the many sounds reverberating loudly as a welcome nudge.

　　Amid the lush forest, I found several birds flying, but I could not name even one. Meanwhile, the bird enthusiasts in my group were already spotting and capturing, from the glowy Golden Orient Pigeon to the perky Purple Sunbird. Clueless but curious, I was in a haven of birds, where they call the shots and live like ‘free birds’ in the true sense. While I was processing this feeling of being in an avian territory, our instructor pointed at a colourful creature soaking in the morning sun and nibbling prey with its curved beak on a tall tree branch. Clearly, it wasn’t a sight for the naked eye; it was time for me to put my birding skills to the test.

　　The Trail

　　Aligning my binoculars lenses parallel, I peeped into the field glasses to look for my first bird. And did I make it in one go? Not really! After the initial struggle, the instructor intervened and began helping first-timers like me. What caught my attention was how these guides go about the process—so detailed and thorough that they take you through every bush and branch in the forest until you find the winged creature. “Can you see that tall tree? Behind that is a branch extending from the adjacent tree, where you will see the Malabar Pied Hornbill in action,” elaborated our guide.

　　Step by step, I followed suit, and this time, my eyes saw the most fascinating sight—a female pied hornbill with a white patch around the eye. I jumped in joy while everybody clapped in a gesture of bonhomie. After a moment of rejoice, I took a close-up shot from my phone, catching the resplendent birdie from afar. The rare sighting presented me with my first postcard from Goa, and I couldn’t be happier.

　　As we continued, our instructor shared how migratory birds like Forest Wagtail, Little Stint, and Brown Breasted Flycatcher choose Goa as their winter stop. Thanks to the diverse topography, ranging from wetlands, mangroves, and grasslands to beaches and hills, a variety of species, including rare ones, are drawn here. However, mushrooming urbanisation and wetland encroachment have jeopardised several species' natural habitats, including the Malabar Grey Hornbill, the Black-Capped Kingfisher and the White-Bellied Blue Flycatcher. Among the birds facing global conservation threats are critically endangered birds such as White-Rumped and Indian vultures.

　　Birding Culture In Goa

　　The two-hour-long morning trail acquainted me with insightful anecdotes on birding culture in Goa and how the advent of digital media has reduced it to bird photography. Naturalist Parag Rangnekar, a fervent birdwatcher, enlightened me about the European birdwatching scene in Goa and the shift from studying birds to mere sightings. “There are more photographers than bird watchers today. Traditional birdwatching is research-driven, centring around analysing the avian world, taking notes and observing birds' behaviour. However, the emergence of advanced devices, such as DSLRs or tracking apps, has made it more about catchy captures and less about the thrill of old-school birding.”

　　As a birding hotspot, Goa prospered the most during the 80s and 90s, with Europeans arriving there for research. Wildlife photographer Indrajit Khobragade told me that the early 2000s was the golden period of birdwatching here, with a gamut for travellers, specifically from Germany, the UK and the Netherlands, dominating the birding scene in the coastal state.

　　Another contribution to making Goa an avian hub was by veteran ornithologist Dr Salim Ali, fondly remembered as the "Birdman of India." His research on birds promoted the ecological wealth of Goa and earned it the reputation of a birding destination from the 70s onwards. "However, the decline in the activity surfaced in the mid-2000s when beaches gained momentum as a lucrative tourist attraction," added Rangnekar. As we went on with Goa's birding history, a melodic call of the Malabar Trogon brought our focus back to the dense jungle and its chirpy companions.

　　Hidden behind a bush, its blink-and-miss appearance kept us hooked to our binoculars for a moment, only to find it vanishing into the forest. Another mesmerising sight was that of the Malabar Grey Hornbill, both male and female. Easily spotted from a distance, the couple—a male with a red and a female with a yellow bill (beak)—seemed engaged in an adorable conversation. Calling it the "bonding period," our guide shared how the two are inseparable during such phases, and their communion transcends the limiting beliefs about romantic relationships, typically constrained to humans.

　　And the sightings didn’t stop there. A male White-Bellied Woodpecker with a bright red crest was another thing of beauty, followed by a Brown-breasted Flycatcher (resembling a sparrow), Nilgiri flowerpecker, Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, and Malabar Imperial Pigeon. While I was keen on catching a glimpse of the Flame-Throated Bulbul, the state bird, I was apprised that its appearance is rare as it is often traced at the edges of forests or inside coffee plantations in the Western Ghats.

　　Nevertheless, the wholesome experience also helped me learn jargon like playback, an unethical practice. “It is like intruding on the privacy of birds, disturbing their natural habitat,” informed Rangnekar. The exercise aims to attract birds by playing recorded bird calls, especially bringing elusive species into view. However, naturalists believe that the playbacks often stress birds, hamper their natural behaviour and impede their breeding activities. They recommend that natural observation is the best way to engage with the birds, as the well-being of birds is sacrosanct. Tourists, on the other hand, are advised to adhere to the walking trails and not play loud music in an act of responsible tourism, ensuring birds feel safe in their presence.

　　The Information

　　Getting There: Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is nearly two hours from Dabolim Airport, the closest commute option to the reserve. Avoid coming via Mopa Airport, which is about three hours away.

　　Accommodation: The forest department makes the stay arrangements within the sanctuary, offering options like a hostel, makeshift tents, and a forest rest house with all the amenities.