Located over 200 miles above the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is a surprisingly vibrant city despite its remote location. Known for its excellent food, festivals, buzzing nightlife, and stunning scenery, it’s one of the best places to witness the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). Additionally, it serves as a key starting point for many polar expeditions. We spent five days in Tromsø during Thanksgiving, chasing the Northern Lights and soaking in the Arctic splendor.

　　From November to January, the sun stays below the horizon, offering little daylight during what is known as mørketiden, or "the dark time." Traveling with two small children to a place with constant darkness and sub-zero temperatures may seem daunting at first, but it worked wonders for us. There's something magical about a place where the sun never rises, and the Northern Lights dance across the sky. All houses and shops glow with countless candles, creating a perpetual sunset-like atmosphere. Surprisingly, it’s not as cold as you might expect.

　　The mild waters of the Gulf Stream grant northern Norway the mildest climate at this latitude, making it a unique destination. There are plenty of activities to keep children engaged, and even though mine are very young—aged six and three—they would love to return. November also kicks off the party season in Tromsø, with most places coming alive and bustling after 10 pm. The main street, Storgata, is lined with charming shops and numerous salons, adding to the vibrant atmosphere of the city.

　　Tromsø is renowned for the Northern Lights, but since they can be elusive, we decided to begin our trip with a chase. The Aurora Borealis can appear any time of year, but it's only visible when it's dark and clear. To maximize our chances, we planned our visit during the darkest time of the year. Think of the Northern Lights like a bashful child—they may appear full of energy or decide to hide. We signed up for multiple activities, including two Northern Lights chases. Our strategy paid off, as on the first chase, the winds were so strong that they pushed buses off the road, forcing the tour to be cancelled.

　　The Gruelling Wait

　　Most tour operators provide English-speaking guides for the Northern Lights chases. The tours usually start around 8pm and last for 2-3 hours, so it's a good idea to rest during the day and prepare for the night. The guides take you to the outskirts, where there are expansive, unobstructed views of the sky. On our second chase, we were fortunate enough to witness a stunning display that lasted 30-35 minutes, lighting up the entire sky. It felt like a symphony conducted by nature. The lights primarily showed as clear dark green streaks, but they can shift to pink or purple depending on the atmospheric gases. While it's tempting to photograph the phenomenon, I recommend soaking in the magic first before reaching for the camera.

　　The Northern Lights are also visible from Fjellheisen, a 10-minute ride from Tromsø on the local bus, taking you to the Tromsø Gondola. Not only does it offer stunning views of the city, but it also provides occasional sightings of the Northern Lights. Concerned about the children’s energy levels at night, we made sure they rested well beforehand. Surprisingly, they were full of enthusiasm and excited by the natural wonder. My daughter even recalled seeing the lights in the movie Frozen. The key to keeping them happy was keeping them warm. We layered up extensively and brought along hand and foot warmers to ensure comfort.

　　A popular and unique experience in Tromsø is the Husky Dog Sled ride, where it’s hard to say who enjoys it more—the mushers, the passengers, or the dogs. Each sled is pulled by 5-7 huskies, with two people riding along. The excitement is palpable as you arrive at the sled, and once the huskies start running, the air goes silent. You can see the joy in the dogs as they dash through the snow. The children adored the experience. The operator provides snowsuits and blankets for warmth during the ride. Many husky ride centers are located outside the town, offering the chance to witness the Northern Lights if you take a ride later in the evening. You can even drive the sled yourself, as the dogs know the route and follow each other. Most mushers are young college graduates from around the world, eager to experience the beauty of Norway.

　　After nearly an hour of thrilling dog-sledding, we had the chance to meet the husky puppies, much to the delight of my children, who were thrilled to play with and hold them. We then gathered around a fire in a Gamme, a traditional Sami hut, where we were served warm drinks, hot chocolate, and a traditional Sami meal. The meal featured Bacalao (local stockfish in a rich red sauce), reindeer meat, and delicious brownies for dessert. Vegetarian options were also available, ensuring everyone had a delightful experience.

　　The next activity on our list was a visit to The Polar Park, located three hours away from Tromso in Bardu. The park even offers dedicated parking for campers and caravans. As we ventured inland, the temperature dropped significantly due to the absence of the Gulf Stream's warmth, but we were fortunate to experience snow without the bitter cold. The park features animals in their natural habitat, and we saw Norway's large predators—wolves, brown bears, lynx—and their prey. Spanning 112 hectares with 12 enclosures, it was an unforgettable experience, especially meeting the wolves inside their enclosure. Despite being socialized, these wolves are still predators, and the moment one put its paws on my outstretched hands and made eye contact with me, my breath caught in awe. While children are not allowed inside the wolf enclosure, if you wish to visit, be sure to book in advance. My children had a blast at the park, loving the animals and, despite the snow, running around, building countless snowmen, and frolicking in the winter wonderland.

　　On a rest day, we took the two young ones to Polaria, where the exhibits are both educational and informative. One of the highlights is the panoramic five-screen cinema, which showcases fascinating documentaries about the Northern Lights and Svalbard. However, the most popular attraction is the bearded seal show. These seals, an Arctic species found in Svalbard, captivated the children, who were thrilled to interact with them up close. It was an experience they won't forget!

　　The Information

　　Where to Stay

　　The centrally located Clarion Hotel The Edge is the largest conference hotel in Tromso, offering a variety of rooms and suites. However, these tend to book up quickly, so it’s best to reserve well in advance (prices start from NOK 2270 per room, nordicchoicehotels.com/tromso). The hotel also boasts a generous breakfast buffet, which is included with your stay—don't miss the Vitamin D booster shot! Other popular options include the Radisson Blu (prices from NOK 1700 per room, radissonblu.com/hotel/tromso) and Thon Hotel Polar (prices from NOK 974 per room, thonhotels.com).

　　Where and What to Eat

　　Tromso is a salmon lover's delight. For an exceptional gourmet experience with both pre-set vegetarian and non-vegetarian options, as well as à la carte dishes, head to Mathallen. If you're staying at the Clarion Hotel The Edge, be sure to visit Masterchef Marcus Samuelsson's Kitchen & Table restaurant. For a pizza and pasta fix to satisfy the kids, Yonas Pizzeria is the perfect choice. The city also boasts plenty of cafés and coffee houses if you're looking to cosy up indoors.

　　Arctic Clothing

　　As one of my Nordic friends says, "There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing." The key to staying warm and having fun is layering. It makes all the difference between a good experience and a bad one. Tromso can get quite windy during winter. We wore merino base layers, ski jackets, ski pants, and gloves whenever we ventured outside. Snow boots and woollen socks were essential for keeping our feet warm. Balaclavas and pashmina stoles also came in handy during snow play and on windy days. There are shops that rent out thermal suits and other snow gear if needed. Most activities, such as whale watching and husky sledding, include snowsuits and boots as part of the package, but it's always better to be prepared for the unpredictable Arctic weather. For thermal suit rentals (book in advance), check out Tromso Outdoor (tromsooutdoor.no), which also offers delivery services.

　　Northern Lights Photography

　　The Northern Lights require professional cameras for proper capture. While there are several iOS and Android apps that can assist, a DSLR is really the best option. Be sure to bring a tripod to avoid blurry photos; without one, your pictures may come out hazy. Our guide, who was also the tour's professional photographer, kindly took one photo per family. He recommended using a wide-angle lens, manual mode, ISO between 800 and 1600, and an exposure time of 8-30 seconds for the best results.

　　Note: Please note that this story is an older piece that has been republished for reading purposes.